Communism (Ismail Somoni)
Classic route from the North side through Borodkin Spur and PFP
Climb to Camp 1 (5100 m)
Hike up the right side of
the Walter Glacier's moraine. Cross the glacier and further up to the
ice-snow "pillow" under the sheer slope of Pamir Neve Plateau
(Pamirskoe Firnovoe Plato - PFP). It is necessary to cross it as early
as possible and at maximum speed. After "pillow" there is the
rocky stretch, then the crest where C1 is set (about 6-7 hours). Usage
of 2-3 ropes.
Climb to Camp 2 (5800 m)
Northern ridge (4-5 hrs). This part of the route is not technically difficult: wide snow-covered spur partially 35 to 40° steep. The camp is set in a trough. From 5100 m up to 5300 m there are 2-3 ropes, from 5300 m up to 5800 m the usage of the ropes is also necessary.
Climb to Camp 3 (6100 m). Camp "Vostok" ("The East").
Early start and ascent to the two-headed summit. Climbing is roped partially. Traverse up to the left to the top and then descent to PFP (4-5 hrs). From 5800 m up to 6000 m there are 4 ropes, from 6100 m up to 6200 m - 2 ropes. While descending to PFP- use 1-2 ropes to cross over a crevasse.
Climb to Camp 4 (6900 m) or (6700 m).
Early start and climb on the northern snow/ice slope of Mt. Peak Dushanbe (7-8 hrs). Climbing in partially roped. An ascent is technically easy. After ascent to Mt. Peak Dushanbe (7000 m) descend to the Camp- 6900.
Ascent to the summit 7495 m and descent to Camp 4 or Camp 2.
Early start and climb up the steep snow slope keeping the steep rocks on the right. Go straight to the summit and then back to Camp 4 (6900 m). 8-9 hrs.