Preface
In the autumn of 1996 the expedition to Muztag Ata mountain (7546 m, East Pamir, China, other names- Muztagata, Mustag Ata, Muztagh Ata) was carried out by "Byrevestnik" ("Petrel") Alpine Club of Tomsk city, West Siberia, Russia. The choice of this object for an ascent was dictated by several reasons. Firstly, this expedition appeared the first stage in the new Superproject, planned on spring 1997 - ascent within the framework of the expedition on two Himalaya giants - Cho-Oyu (8201 m) and Shisha Pangma (8013 m) at once. Secondly, the year of 1996 was the special one in the history of Russian mountain climbings on the Muztag Ata, it was the 40th Anniversary of the 1st ascent made by join Soviet-Chinese Expedition. In the far 1956 the team under management of E.A. Beletskiy has made the 1st ascent on the summit of Muztag Ata. The cooperation of the Soviet and Chinese climbers was necessary, because overall objective was an ascent on highest top of the world - Everest - from the Tibetan side. These plans, unfortunately, could not come true. The politics has interfered with last moment, and the brilliant generation of the high-altitude mountaineers of Abalakov and Beletskiy did not manage to carry out The Dream.
Expedition's Staff
|
¹
|
Name,
2nd name
|
Position
|
Age
|
|
1
|
Stanislav Krilov | leader |
35
|
|
2
|
Dmitriy Bochkov | senior trainer |
47
|
|
3
|
Sergey Richkov | doctor |
51
|
|
4
|
Anna Akinina | climber |
28
|
|
5
|
Sergey Russkih | climber |
33
|
|
6
|
Vladimir Khilko | climber |
37
|
|
7
|
Alexandr Gingazov | climber |
41
|
|
8
|
Valeriy Neudahin | climber |
39
|
|
9
|
Mickail Sherstobitov | climber |
33
|
|
10
|
Evgeniy Karepin | climber |
30
|
|
11
|
Alexandr Cherniavskiy | climber |
30
|
|
12
|
Sergey Kolotilo | climber |
24
|
Expedition's shedule
| Sept., 2 | arrival to Bishkek |
| Sept., 5 | acclimatization ascent to Korona ("The Crown") peak, Ala-Archa gorge, Kirgiztan |
| Sept., 8 | departure from Bishkek |
| Sept., 9 | arrival to the city of Kashgar, China |
| Sept., 11 | establishing of BC at 4600 m |
| Sept., 13 | establishing of intermediate camp at 5400 m |
| Sept., 14 | establishing of Camp-1 at 5900 m |
| Sept., 18 | establishing of Camp-2 at 6500 m |
| Sept., 19 | the 1st group reached the summit: S. Krilov, D. Bochkov, V. Khilko, A. Akinina, E. Karepin |
| Sept., 21 | the 2nd group reached the summit: S. Russkih, A. Cherniavskoy, V. Neudahin |
| Sept., 23 | S. Kolotilo reached the summit with the French group |
| Sept., 25 | return to Kashgar |
| Sept., 27 | return to Bishkek |
| Sept., 30 | return to Tomsk |
The expedition is carried out in classical style. Because of a high location of the base camp (BC, 4600 m), acclimatization ascents were carried out before departure to China on the tops above 4500 ì in Tien Shan ranges of Zailiyskiy Alatau (Kazakhstan) and Kirgiz Ala Too (Kirgiztan). Weather during all expedition was sunny and windy. All groups have made ascents from the Camp-2 (6500 m). The plans of expedition included skiing descent from the summit of several members of the expedition. Unfortunately, the skiing descent was not held because of a strong wind and lack of time, owing to a too low location of the BC. Nevertheless, Sergey Russkih descent on September 22 on a ski from assault camp (6500 m) up to height 6100 m. The expedition used a fixed rope (20 m), left by previous groups at the height of 5800 m. Up to height of 5400 m the route passed on scree slopes, up to height of 6200 m on completely or partially iced slopes. For passage of ice sites the crampoons were used. The oxygen was not applied. The porters were not used. To reach the BC site the 10 camels within three hours were used.
Recommendations
For the purpose of skiing descend from the summit, it is recommended to use the 2nd ascent or establish the assault camp higher than at 6500 m.
Expedition's Summary
Nine expedition's members reached the summit of Muztag-Ata (7546 m): Stanislav Krilov, Anna Akinina, Vladimir Khilko, Evgeniy Karepin, Dmitriy Bochkov, Sergey Russkih, Alexandr Cherniavskiy, Valeriy Neudahin, Sergey Kolotilo. Alexandr Gingazov reached altitude of 6500 m, Mickail Sherstobitov - 6100 m.
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