Central Tien Shan. Khan Tengri peak (7010 m) climbing from North side.

Pass hopping (heavy trekking) and climbing fotoreport.

 

Slides by: Nikolay Gonenko. Scanning, image processing and comments: Igor Fedyaev.

to enlarge picture click on thumbnail image

On the view back from the Bayankol Pass (1B CD, 4400 m, ice) the entire West Bayankol glacier is seen.
Central Tien Shan. Trekking to North Inilchek BC. Bayankol West glacier from Bayankol pass.
Without any descent you reach the wide glacial plateau- the Semenov glacier. Here you have to stay on the bivouac before climbing the Opasniy pass (5200 m, 3A CD, ice).
Central Tien Shan. Trekking to North Inilchek BC. Camp on Semenov glacier.
From this point it is good view from the North to the Peak Semenov (Peak Semenova, 5816 m) and the Opasniy pass (not clear shaped saddle between the Semenov peak, left, and peak-5420, right,).
Central Tien Shan. Trekking to North Inilchek BC. Semenov peak and Opasniy pass from North.
To reach the pass, you have to find small spur from the peak-5420...
Central Tien Shan. Trekking to North Inilchek BC. Approaches to Opasniy pass from North.
...and begin to climb this spur keep to left side of it.
Central Tien Shan. Trekking to North Inilchek BC. Climb up Opasniy pass.
The climbing on the North side is not technically difficult, but use belaying in couples or group belaying due to danger of crevasses.
Central Tien Shan. Trekking to North Inilchek BC. Climb up Opasniy pass.
Central Tien Shan. Trekking to North Inilchek BC. Climb up Opasniy pass.
Turn slightly left across the spur...
Central Tien Shan. Trekking to North Inilchek BC. Climb up Opasniy pass.
...then, after crossing the bergshrund (you will be lucky if it will be enough snow to make "snow bridge"),...
Central Tien Shan. Trekking to North Inilchek BC. Climb up Opasniy pass.
...you reach the saddle (5200 m). It is enough space for 2-3 tents here, but better don't camping due to strong winds- just leave the backpacks and climb up the West ridge to the Peak Semenov. Here is view back from the saddle to the North side.
Central Tien Shan. Trekking to North Inilchek BC. View to North from Opasniy pass.
The views to the South are great (Nansen peak is seen).
Central Tien Shan. Trekking to North Inilchek BC. View to South from Opasniy pass.
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