Central Tien Shan. Khan Tengri peak (7010 m) climbing from North side.
Pass hopping (heavy trekking) and climbing fotoreport.
Slides by: Nikolay Gonenko. Scanning, image processing and comments: Igor Fedyaev.
to enlarge picture click on thumbnail image
|From the left side of North Inilchek glacier you can see it's upper circus with Marble Wall Peak (6400 m, the 2nd summit from left), 100 Let VGO (6276 m, far right) peak and some others. BC is situated on the right moraine of North Inilchek glacier..|
|The sunset on Khan Tengri is something unbelievable...|
|Khan Tengri (7010 m) marble pyramid and it's North Face (6A CC UIAA, combined rock and ice). The Chapayev Peak ridge is on the foreground.|
|Chapayev Peak ridge - the normal path for Khan Tengri North climbing (see the climbing map). The down part of the route (before Camp-1, 4800 m) with the bergshrund (marked with tracks) and the pedestal (Camp-2 site, 5600 m) is clearly seen.|
|The Chapayev peak ridge sideview (slightly to the West from normal route).|
|The down part (glacier- Camp 1) of the route is moderate snow/neve/ a bit icy climbing.|
|As a rule, you can climb separately on in pairs (be aware of crevasses!).|
|Then, after about 200 m free snow climbing, the 1st obstacles - bergshrund and about 15 m ice wall - are occurred. Turn left under the wall and wait for "free rope" ("Veriovka svobodna!")...|
|Then, climb up fixed rope using zhumar or similar ascent device...|
|Above the wall, the slope is becoming gentle and leads to the small rock ground (right) where the Camp-1 at 4800 m is located.|