Central Tien Shan. Khan Tengri peak (7010 m) climbing from North side.

Pass hopping (heavy trekking) and climbing fotoreport.

 

Slides by: Nikolay Gonenko. Scanning, image processing and comments: Igor Fedyaev.

to enlarge picture click on thumbnail image

From Camp-1 the South slopes of Marble Wall and Pogranichnik peak are clearly seen. As a rule, after getting proper acclimatization, it is of no need to stay here- better go further up to Camp-2. But if it is your acclimatization ascent, in case of bad weather or so, to stay overnight here might become mandatory...
Central Tien Shan. Khan Tengri North climbing. Camp-1.
The slopes directly above Camp-1 are relatively gentle. Climb up the fixed rope but be sure no other guys are descending out of view!
Central Tien Shan. Khan Tengri North climbing. View up from camp-1.
Central Tien Shan. Khan Tengri North climbing. View up from camp-1.
There are some small steps here - climb with care because of some rocks are not reliable!
Central Tien Shan. Khan Tengri North climbing. Climb up from camp-1 to camp-2.
The long gentle ridge leads to the 2nd serious obstacle en route- 1st rock step (seen at the very top).
Central Tien Shan. Khan Tengri North climbing. Climb up from camp-1 to camp-2.
The step is becoming closer and closer...
Central Tien Shan. Khan Tengri North climbing. Climb up from camp-1 to camp-2.
The step is rock wall 15-20 m high, about 70° average- similar to 2nd step on Everest North-East ridge but no stair is available, only fixed rope ;-)
Central Tien Shan. Khan Tengri North climbing. Climb up from camp-1 to camp-2. Rocky step.
This photo is easy to be confused with similar from Everest 2nd step ;-)
Central Tien Shan. Khan Tengri North climbing. Climb up from camp-1 to camp-2. Rocky step.
Above the step, the slope isn't becoming very gentle but quickly leads to small ground where it is possible to pick up to 2-3 tents in the case if it seems impossible to reach Camp-2 in a day. This intermediate camp is at approx. 5400 m elevation.
Central Tien Shan. Khan Tengri North climbing. Climb up from camp-1 to camp-2. Rocky step.
Central Tien Shan. Khan Tengri North climbing. Climb up from camp-1 to camp-2. Intermediate camp.
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