Central Tien Shan. Khan Tengri peak (7010 m) climbing from South side.Trekking and climbing fotoreport.South Inilchek Base Camp site (Pobeda and Khan Tengri peaks).Fotos by: Vladimir Bondarev, Igor Fedyaev, Nikolay Gonenko, Georgy Regetsiy, taken in several expeditions. Comments: Igor Fedyaev. to enlarge picture click on thumbnail image |
|
| If you fly to BC, the 1st view of Khan Tengri appears not far from the camp site, after glacier suddenly turns left. |
 |
| Actually, there are 2 groups of BCs on the South Inilchek Glacier, which provides services (accommodation, meals, porters, guides, communication, etc.) for climbers attempting Peak Pobeda (7439 m), Khan Tengri (7010 m) and some other peaks. One group (the bigger one) is based on the intermediate moraine between the left edge of the South Inilchek glacier and Zvezdochka ("Small Star") glacier close to their junction near so-called "Black Rock"). There is one helipad which serves all the camps on this moraine (see photo, Khan Tengri is seen on the background). To reach the foothill of the Khan Tengri one must cross the South Inilchek glacier (approx. 4 hrs walk to glacial Camp-4200). |
 |
| To the South of this site there are situated short left tributary of Inilchek - Zvezdochka glacier and the Northern ridges of Pobeda massif. The ridge leading to Pobeda West (or Peak Vazha Pshavela) is seen here, included Dikiy Pass and Dikiy Severniy (North) Pass to the right - the latter is popular acclimatization route. |
 |
| Here is good view to Vazha Pshavela and Dikiy Pass (the 1st obstacle on Pobeda normal route). |
 |
| Due to enough flat space, large army tents are used in this (left-side) BCs as kitchen and dining rooms... |
 |
| Close to the right BC, one can see the debrises of 2 helicopters which crashed consequently in one day in 1993 - one was thrown by the strong wind on the serac's wall immediately after take off, the 2nd tried to evacuate the engine from the 1st and crashed same way... |
 |
| On the opposite (right) side of the Inilchek glacier one can find the another group (small one) of BCs (so-called "MAL"). To the contrary of the left-side BCs, these BCs are standing on solid (rock) ground between the south slopes of Peak Chapayev (the hero of Civil War in Russia and popular character of jokes ;) and right edge moraine of Inilchek. Due to the lack of flat grounds, there are no big tents in this BC (but some huts used for kitchen, bania and other facilities do exist here!). Sometimes one can enjoy staying near small lake here... |
 |
| ...but sometimes not. |
 |
| The excursion objects there are represented by so-called Memorial Rock with the memorial scripts dedicated to those who lost their lifes on surrounded summits... |
 |
| Among the other features of right-side BC is great view of Pobeda massif... |
 |
| ...and of the left-side BC- amazing view to Chapaev Peak (left) and Khan Tengri marble pyramid! |
 |
| As for acclimatization, if you stand in left-side BC, we recommend to climb Dikiy Severniy (North) pass, 4580 m, no technical climbing. To reach this pass, one should go 1st on the Zvezdochka glacier... |
 |
| ...then turn right BEFORE the climbers who go to Dikiy Pass (to climb Pobeda, Dikiy is far beyond vs. Dikiy North in terms of climbing!). |
 |
| We also recommend to stay overnight on the Dikiy North saddle (enough space for tents there!) for better acclimatization. If you're standing in MAL (right-side BC), we recommend go up to Camp-5300 or (better) to the saddle (Camp-5900) of the Khan itself as the acclimatization, combining it with the delivery of some loads... |
 |
| After 2-3 days in BC and acclimatization approach, the team is ready for climbing! (author in yellow parka at the very left ;) |
 |