Central Tien
Shan. Khan Tengri peak (7010 m) climbing from South side.
Trekking and
climbing fotoreport.
BC to Khan
Tengri Camp-5900.
Photos by: Vladimir
Bondarev, Igor Fedyaev, Nikolay Gonenko, Georgy Regetsiy, taken in several
expeditions. Comments: Igor Fedyaev.
to
enlarge picture click on thumbnail image
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| For left-side BC, go across Inilchek glacier straight
forward to Khan (more precisely, to the very end of Chapaev's ridge which
is clearly seen on the photo). There is the site of so-called "Glacial
ABC" or Camp-4200. No facilities there- pick your own tents! |
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| The surface of the glacier reminds the skate stadium- take
a look from where you went to this place... |
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| ...and to the opposite side - the upper circus of Inilchek
with Peak Voennih Topografov Peak (Peak of Military Topographers, to the
right) - this place is now belonged to China! |
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| The glacial ABC is situated on the right side
of Inilchek glacier. Try to stay as close to the junction with Semenov glacier
as it would be possible! |
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| Bear in mind, you MUST start climbing as early in the morning
as possible- better in 4-5 a.m. due to danger of stonefalls and icefalls
from the slopes of Chapayev peak! The climbing up to camp-5300 and camp-5900
is very few technical- as a rule, no rope is needed, only good shape and
crampons ;) |
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| Despite the glacier seems to be continuous icefall, the way
is obvious- keep left and be quick to reach the 5300 before regular stonefall
(as a rule, begins after 10-12 a.m. if sunny!). |
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| The followers of Oriental beliefs would be surprised with
some erotic shapes of ice ;-)... |
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| The snow slopes between Camp-5300
and Camp-5900 (the saddle) leaves enough space for camping. Which camp you
will choose depends mostly on your shape - as a rule, in final push we always
reached the saddle. As for acclimatization, 5300 would be enough- but stay
overnight there! Don't stay at 5300 on assault climbing- you have very small
fortune to reach the summit in one day from here! |
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| In Camp-5900, don't miss the opportunity to take the picture
of yourself with Peak Pobeda as the background (as the author did ;-)...
It is normal to reach this site in a day (8-10 hrs climbing) from the ABC. |
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| Camp-5900 is situated immediately down the Western Col (about
6,000 m) of Khan Tengri, on it's south slope. It consists very limited
ground to pick the tents... |
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| ...and few snow caves made up by the guides- better choice
to stand in than a tent! Note: only organized climbers can stay in caves,
and as a rule, porters make advanced delivery of loads to the caves! |
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| Staying in the cave, it is worth to take the Pobeda picture
like this... |
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