Central Tien
Shan. Khan Tengri peak (7010 m) climbing from South side.
Trekking and
climbing fotoreport.
Khan Tengri:
Camp-5900 to the summit.
Photos by: Vladimir Bondarev,
Igor Fedyaev, Nikolay Gonenko, Georgy Regetsiy, taken in several expeditions.
Comments: Igor Fedyaev.
to
enlarge picture click on thumbnail image
|
| The technical climbing begins immediately from
the camp-5900: about 40 m neve/ice slope leads to the saddle. Try start
climbing early morning (say, 5-6 a.m.) - you need to reach the summit and
descent here daytime, and it is really hard... |
|
Now you can take a rest a bit walking to the foothill of the
summit spur... and then the dances begin... Take a look at the same photo
but with the marked
ascent route. You can also see the step which hides the Camp-6300 site.
Above it is one more camp- so-called Camp-6700, but bear in mind it is very
small ground (1-2 tents only!) which is used only in emergency!
Note. From this point, the routes
from South and North sizes are joined. We recommend for those climbers who
climb Khan Tengri North to descend onto South side because it is much easier! |
|
| Camp-6300 (sometimes referred as
Camp-6400) is small site for Amax 3-4 tents and is using usually as intermediate
camp for those who couldn't reach the saddle on descent. Be aware of the
snow cornices to the North (bottom photo)! |
|
|
|
|
|
| Virtually the entire summit spur is rocky and steep- so, you
go using continuos fixed rope (provided by our guides!). On this photo,
you also can clearly see the summit of Peak Chapaev with the tracks of those
who climb Khan Tengri from the North - it is much harder route! Camp-5900
site and the col are also well seen. |
|
| Closer to the summit, the spur is becoming a bit gentle and
icy... |
|
| And finally, you see the summit's snow dome and
the tripod with the pieces of aluminum foil- so, you're lucky, job is done
and you have to take the Victorious Picture! Raising flags, anthems, loving
dolly - all are here! ;-) But don't forget you have to descend same day
before the sunset! Try to reach Camp-5900 to have a good rest! |
|
| Next evening you can enjoy of search your tent in BC after
snowfall... |
|
| ...picnic either under film roof... |
|
| ...or even in open air with the friends, BC stuff and other
climbers... |
|
| Leaving the Tien Shan mountains, try not to forget their beauty
and their eternal symbol - edelweisses... |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
