Big walls of Pamir Alai. Climbing.

Big Walls of Pamir Alai. Pamir Alai. Climbing. 21 days.

Region: Pamir Alai, Turkestan Range, Kyrgyzstan
Activity: rock climbing, Big Wall climbing (mostly rock, sometimes combined rock+ice)
Trip Category: regular
Difficulty: very difficult, need of special skill and gear (up to 6B+ CD)
Dates: June - September

The part of Turkestan Range (Pamir Alai mountain system) on the very western corner of Kyrgyzstan, which reminds South-American Patagonia, is most suitable place in former USSR for rock and Big Wall climbing. Mild climate, stable sunny weather, clearest rivers, alpine meadows, glaciers surrounded by 5000-meters summits make this area real Mekka for climbers.
On every summit you can make your own original route. The best time for climbing - July-September. The duration of the expedition depends on your plans and as a rule it takes from 15 to 35 days. All the ascents are started from the base camp.

We offer 2 climbing trip: Variant 1 - in Lailak canyon and Variant 2 - in Karavshin canyon, both 21 days long.

Warning! These climbing trips are intended for experienced climbers only! Most of the routes are potentially very dangerous! Previous rock climbing skill and full set of rock climbing gear are mandatory!

Russian- French- UIAA climbing gtade equivalents (approx.):

Russian	French	UIAA
1a, 1b	F – PD inf	I - II
2a, 2b	PD	II - III
3a	PD – AD	III
3b	AD – D	III - IV
4a, 4b	D – TD	IV - V
5a, 5b	TD – ED inf	VI
6	ED	VI

Climbing options for Lailak canyon:

Name of summits	Altitude A.S.L., m	Grade steepnes	Average of route	The length difference	Altitude
Admiralteetz	5090	5B	60°	1500	1150
Aksu	5217	5B-6B	65°	1600	1380
A. Block	5239	5B-6A	65°	1000	850
Iskander	5120	5A	65°	1200	1000

Itinerary (variant 1, Lailak canyon, 21 days):

Day 1

Arrival in Tashkent. Meeting at airport. Transfer to hotel.

Day 2

Transfer to Uzgarysh village (250 km, 7 hrs). Camping.

Day 3

Passage to Aksu canyon with caravan of horses (10 km, 5...6 hrs). Base camp.

Days 4-18

Ascents.

Day 19

Descent to Uzgarysh village with caravan of horses. Camping.

Day 20

Transfer via Isfana village to Tashkent (250 km,7 hrs). Hotel.

Day 21

Transfer to airport. Departure from Tashkent.

Climbing options for Karavshin canyon:

Name of
summits

Altitude
A.S.L., m

Grade
steepnes

Average
of route

The length
difference

Altitude

Pyramidalniy

5509

65°

1300

1000

Slesova

4240

5B-6B

75°

1200

1000

The 1000`s
Anniversary of
Russia's
Christening

4507

5B-6A

65°

1800

1500

Peak 4810

4810

70°

1500

1200

Itinerary (variant 2, 21 days, Karavshin canyon):

Day 1 Arrival in Tashkent. Meeting at airport. Transfer to hotel.

Day 2 Transfer to village Vorukh (300 km, 8 hrs). Camping.

Days 3-4 Passage to the highflow of Karavshin river to the valleys of Aksu and Karasu rivers (35 km, 15 hrs) with caravan of horses. Base camp.

Days 5-17 Ascents.

Days 18-19 Descent to Vorukh village with caravan of horses. Camping..

Day 20 Transfer to Tashkent (300 km, 8 hrs). Hotel accommodation.

Day 21 Transfer to airport. Departure from Tashkent.

Note. The itineraries of above are draft and can be changed to meet weather, your special wishes, etc.

Cost (both variants): please for an offer!

Included: Meeting and transfers in Tashkent, accommodation in double tents on trek and double rooms in the hotels, all the transfers according to the program, food - 3 times a day on the active part, guide, porters, cook, interpreter, rent of necessary equipment (kitchen dishes, folding tables, chairs, toilet tent, dining tent), ecological fee, trekking and climbing permits.

Not included: Visa fees, alcoholic beverages and other luxuries, personal items.
Options. Visa support, extra nights in Tashkent, SGL accommodation, gear rental, extra excursions. Top-level (Master of Sport of International Class) climbing guide service (please ask in advance!).