Pamir: Communism (Somoni) peak climbing. 29 days, from Dushanbe.

See also: Communism peak climbing. 29 days, from Dushanbe via Jirgital

Region: Tadjikistan, Pamir, Academii Nauk (Academy Of Sciences) range
Activity: mountaineering
Trip Category: regular
Difficulty: difficult, need of special skill and full set of mountaineering gear. 2 nights hotel accommodation, 25 nights at tents.
Season: July-August. Helicopter flights from Dushanbe (or Jirgital) to Moskvina BC: July, 22; July, 25; July, 29; August, 01. Days of return flights from BC (or Jirgital): August, 17; August, 20; August, 26; August, 27. (Note: this timetable may be subject to change!)
Special offer: Lenin peak + Communism (Somoni) and/or Korjenevskoy peaks ( )!

Pamir - one of the interpretation of the origin of the word is "The Roof of The World" is one of the world's biggest and highest (up to 7,495 m - Communism peak) mountain land on the south of Central Asia where virtually all kinds of mountain outdoors are possible - from medium trekking to extremely difficult mountaineering. The entire area keeps ecological purity and untouched wild nature so far because of practically absent of industrial development and very rare population.

Communism Peak (renamed to "Ismoili Somoni") - the highest mountain of Tajikistan and former USSR - is located in Akademii Nauk (Academy of Sciences) Range. Discovered by Tadjik Complex Expedition (leader - N.P. Gorbunov) in 1932. First ascent (East Ridge) - Sept. 3, 1933, Eugeny Abalakov and Nikolay Gorbunov.

The mountain's name has an interesting and very politized history. The 1st name was Pik Garmo until 1933, then it was changed to Stalin Peak after the current leader of Soviet Union. If you take a look at the area's map, the surrounded names are suited the Uncle Joe: NKVD and Beriya (after the predessor of KGB and it's bloody leader) glaciers and so on. In 1962, after Nikita Khrustcev took over the ortodox stalinists in Politburo, it was renamed to Communism Peak. After the collapse of USSR, in 1998 it was next time changed to Ismaili Somoni (Ismail Samani or Ismoil Somoni), but so far the peak is widely known as Communism 'cause not very much people know who the great guy Somoni is (in fact, it is believed he was the foundator of ancient Tadjik state).

Communism Peak is a huge mountain looks like a giant heavily glaciated wall, despite it rising above a dry, barren region. The common way (via Borodkin Spur and Dushanbe Peak) lays through interesting natural phenomena: Pamirskoye Firnovoe Plato (PFP, Pamir's Neve Plateau)- neve and snow-covered flat ground of a size of few football stadiums, rised to the altitude of about 6,000 m! Climbing Communism peak is real mountaineering adventure involving full set of mountainering (mostly ice) gear and it needs good acclimatization and previous mountaineering background. It is good idea to climb Lenin or Korjenevskoy peak as a preparation for Communism peak (see corresponding chapters).

Itinerary (Variant 1 from Dushanbe, full package):

Day 1	Arrival to Dushanbe. Meeting at airport. Transfer to hotel.
Day 2	Helicopter flight to the Moskvina Glade BC.
Day 3	Day of rest.
Day 4	Preparation day.
Day 5	Acclimatization climbing of Vorobiov Peak (5685 m), to the Camp-5300. Another option: Peak Chetireh (Peak of The 4th), 6230 m.
Day 6	Ascent to the summit of Vorobiov Peak. Descent to BC.
Day 7	Day of rest.
Day 8	Preparation day.
Day 9	Climb the Borodkin Spur up to the Camp-1 (5300 m). See route description.
Day 10	Climb to the Camp-2 (5800 m).
Day 11	Climb to the Camp-3 (PFP, 6100 m) and descent to the Camp-2.
Day 12	Descent to BC.
Day 13	Day of rest.
Day 14	Preparation day.
Day 15	Assault attempt. Climb to the Camp-1 (5300 m).
Day 16	Climb to the Camp-2 (5800 m).
Day 17	Climb to the Camp-3 (6100 m).
Day 18	Climb to the Camp-4 (assault camp, North slope of Dushanbe Peak, 6900 m).
Day 19	Ascent of the summit (7495 m) and descent to the Camp-4 or Camp-2.
Day 20	Descent to the BC.
Days 21- 27	Additional days in case of bad weather.
Day 28	Helicopter flight to Dushanbe. Overnight in hotel.
Day 29	Transfer hotel-airport. Departure from Dushanbe.

Note: the itinerary of above is draft one and should be subject to adjust to meet weather conditions, helicopter flights schedule, participants' wishes, etc.

Cost: EUR 1950 per person (no group size limit!)
Included: OVIR registration, meeting/seeing off at airport, transfers in Dushanbe, flight Dushanbe-Moskvina BC (up to 30 kg payload per person, EUR3 for each additional kilo) and return, 2 nights hotel accomodation in Dushanbe (DBL BB, **), all permits and local fees, full board in BC: tent accommodation (2-4 person tents), 3 time a day hot meals, toilet, sauna, hot shower and cloak room service, in BC, 1st aid medical service, guide-instructor and iterpreter.

Not included: Travel to and from Dushanbe, visa fees, alcoholic beverages and other luxuries, personal items, insurance and cost of rescue team support, food away from BC, climbing guide and porters service.
Options. You can combine climbing of Communism Peak with climbing Korjenevskoy (Korjenevskaya) Peak (7105 m) ! The arrival and departure point can be changed with Bishkek, Almaty or Tashkent. Hotel accommodation in Dushanbe, Bishkek, Tashkent and Almaty (from * to *****), transfers in Bishkek, Tashkent and Almaty, visa support, additional excursions, climbing guide and porter service, butane gas catridges and catridge refill for stoves in BC, radio (including walkie-talkie rental) and sat communications, additional days in BC, gear rental (ask us for the price-list!).

Communism peak climbing. 29 days, from Dushanbe via Jirgital

Itinerary (Variant 2 from Dushanbe via Jirgital, 28 days, light package):

Note: the itinerary of above is draft one and should be subject to adjust to meet weather conditions, helicopter flights schedule, participants' wishes, etc.

Cost (light package): EUR 1050 per person (no group size limit!).
Included: OVIR registration, transfer airport-hotel-airport, 2 nights private hotel accommodation in Dushanbe, transfer Dushanbe-Jirgital and return, helicopter flight Jirgital -Moskvina BC (up to 30 kg payload per person, EUR 3 for each additional kilo) and return, all permits, services in BC - places for tents, water, toilet, electricity, 1st aid.

Not included: Travel to and from Dushanbe, visa fees, services in BC, personal items, insurance and cost of rescue team support, food away from BC.

Options. You can combine climbing of Communism Peak with climbing Korjenevskoy (Korjenevskaya) Peak (7105 m)! The arrival and departure point can be changed with Bishkek, Almaty or Tashkent. Hotel and room accommodation in Bishkek, Tashkent and Almaty (from * to *****), visa support, meeting/transfers in Dushanbe, Bishkek, Tashkent and Almaty, additional excursions, tent or hut accommodation (2-4 person tents and huts) and meals in BC, (including full board option), sauna and hot shower in BC, guide-instructor and iterpreter in BC, radio (including walkie-talkie rental) and sat communications, climbing guide and porter service, butane gas catridges and catridge refill for stoves in BC, gear rental, single supplement (ask us for the price-list!).

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