Tien Shan: Khan Tengri - The Lord of the Sky. 22 days, South side, from Almaty.

See also: Khan Tengri (South) from Bishkek, Khan Tengri (North) from Almaty, In the shadow of Khan Tengri: 5000+ peaks climbing.

Region: Kyrghyzstan, Central Tien Shan, Tengritag range
Activity: mountaineering expedition
Trip Category: regular
Difficulty: difficult, need of special skill and full set of mountaineering gear.
Season: July-August.
Helicopter flights schedule- fixed departures for Karkara BC - glacial BCs - Karkara: July, 15; 19; 22; 26; 29 August, 02; 05; 08; 11; 16; 19; 22; 25; 30 September, 5. BC will operate since July, 01 to September, 10(Note: this information might be subject to change!)

Tien Shan - "The Sky Mountains" is one of the world's biggest and highest (up to 7,439 m - peak Pobeda) mountain land on the south of Central Asia where virtually all kinds of mountain outdoors are possible - from easy trekking to extremely difficult mountaineering. The entire area keeps ecological purity and untouched wild nature so far.

The marble pyramid of Khan Tengri (7,010 m high) attracts the people's attention for thousands years - it is seen from the ancient Silk Road, which is crossing so-called "Junghar's Gate" on the present-time Kazakh - Chinese border. The climbing of Khan Tengri from South Inilchek glacier via Western Col (5A CC mountaineering) is perfect adventure and requires good physical conditions of participants, previous climbing skill is also strongly recommended. All the participants who will succesfuly climb the Khan Tengri peak will be awarded with special diploma.

Itinerary:

Day 1	Arrival to Almaty. Transfer to Karkara BC (2200 m). Tent accommodation (comfortable 2-person tents on wooden pedestal).
Days 2,3	Acclimatization days. Ascent to any surrounded peak (4000-4500 m) - recommended.
Day 4	Helicopter flight to South Inylchek BC (35 min, approx. 4000 m) on the side morain of South Inilchek glacier. Rest.
Day 5	Acclimatization day.
Day 6	Acclimatization day. Preparations for climbing (1st acclimatization ascent), consultations.
Day 7	Hiking (about 6 km) across the S. Inilchek glacier. Placing the Camp 1 (ABC, 4,200 m, see climbing map) on the right side moraine near the junction with Semenov glacier.
Day 8	Climbing up the Semenov glacier up to Camp 2 at 5,300 m (note: start should take place very early in the morning due to ice and stone fall danger from the slopes of Chapayev peak).
Day 9	Climbing up to the foothill of Western Col (5,900 m). Placing of Camp 3 (usualy in snow caves).
Day 10	Descent down to BC.
Day 11	Days of rest. Preparations for climbing (assault attempt).
Days 12, 13	Climbing up to Camp 3 (5,900 m).
Days 14, 15	Assault ascent up to the summit (7,010 m) along the Western spur. Return to the Camp 4 (at 6,400 m) or to the Camp 3.
Day 16	Return to the BC.
Days 17, 18	Day of rest.
Day 19	Spare day for the case of bad weather etc.
Day 20	Helicopter flight back to Base Camp Karkara. Rest.
Day 21	Drive to Almaty. Overnight in Hotel (***DBL, BB)
Day 22	Transfer to airport. Departure from Almaty.

Note: the itinerary of above is draft one and should be subject to adjust to meet weather conditions, helicopter flights schedule, participants' wishes, etc.

Cost (variant 1, full package): 1 pax- EUR 1600 per person, 2-3 pax- EUR 1450 per person, 4-5 pax- EUR 1400 per person, 6+ pax- EUR 1350 per person. This option is for experienced mountaineers or for those who prefer the self-guided climbing.
Included: OVIR registration and LOI if needed, meeting/seeing off at Bishkek airport or railway station, transfers in Bishkek, transfers Bishkek - Karkara BC, Karkara- Bishkek, flight to BC and return (no weight limit!), hotel accomodation DBL BB in Bishkek (3 nights), all permits and local fees, full board in BCs: lodge and tent accommodation, 3 time a day hot meals, hot shower, cloak room, sauna and toilet, climbing consultations, long-range (BC-Bishkek) radio communication, walkie-talkie on climbing, fixed rope support, medical aid in BC, electricity in BC, registration with rescue rangers, changes of airflights and railway tickets if needed.

Cost (variant2, full package guided climbing): us for an offer! Discounts for large groups are available. This option is for those who prefer all-arranged guided climbing.
Included: OVIR registration and LOI if needed, meeting/seeing off at Bishkek airport or railway station, transfers in Bishkek, transfers Bishkek - Karkara BC, Karkara- Bishkek, flight to BC and return (no weight limit!), hotel accomodation DBL BB in Bishkek (3 nights), all permits and local fees, full board in BCs: lodge and tent accommodation, 3 time a day hot meals, hot shower, cloak room, sauna and toilet, climbing consultations, long-range (BC-Bishkek) radio communication, walkie-talkie on climbing, medical aid in BC, electricity in BC, registration with rescue rangers, fixed rope support, experienced climbing guide service (1 guide for 1-3 climbers), changes of airflights and railway tickets if needed.

Cost (variant 3, light package): EUR 980
Included: helicopter flight Karkara BC-glacial BC and return (30 kg free of charge, EUR 3 each extra kg), climbing consultations, medical consultations, rescue rangers team registration, ecology fee for BC site, long-distance radio telecommunication service, all permits, OVIR registration.

Not included (all variants): travel to and from Bishkek, personal items, insurance and cost of rescue team support, food away from BC.
Options. The arrival and departure point can be changed with Almaty. The climbing of Khan Tengri peak may be combined with climbing the Pobeda peak or/and Marble Wall peak. Transfer to and from Bishkek from Almaty, hotel accommodation in Bishkek and Almaty (from * to *****), single supplement, transfers in Bishkek and Almaty, additional excursions, climbing guide and porter service, gasoline and butane gas cartridges refuel, gas catridges for stoves at BC, changes the dates of helicopter flights and transfers, additional days at BCs, gear rental (including high-altitude tents), food for climbing, sat communication, Internet access. Short-notice trip on prior agreement.