Tien Shan: Khan Tengri - The Lord of the Sky, North side. 24 days, from Almaty.

See also: Khan Tengri (South) from Almaty, Khan Tengri (South) from Bishkek and In the shadow of Khan Tengri: 5000+ peaks climbing.

Region: Kyrghyzstan, Central Tien Shan, Tengritag range
Activity: mountaineering expedition
Trip Category: regular
Difficulty: difficult (5A UIAA, a bit more difficult than from South side, need of special skill and full set of mountaineering gear).
Season: July-August, best time - from July, 22 to August, 14
Tour to join: July, 22 - August, 14 (full guided climbing + all logistics!). Recommended expansion: Ala-Archa acclimatization trip (available only with changing the arrival point to Bishkek!) us for an offer!
Helicopter flights schedule- fixed departures for Karkara BC - glacial BCs - Karkara:

legend: "+" seats available; "-" full booked; "x" cancelled; NEW added flight

Important notice (for those who have problems with the insurance for Kyrgyzstan): the climbing insurance is now available locally in Almaty for EUR 4 p/day.

Tien Shan - "The Sky Mountains" is one of the world's biggest and highest (up to 7,439 m - peak Pobeda) mountain land on the south of Central Asia where virtually all kinds of mountain outdoors are possible - from easy trekking to extremely difficult mountaineering. The entire area keeps ecological purity and untouched wild nature so far.

The marble pyramid of Khan Tengri (7,010 m high) attracts the people's attention for thousands years - it is seen from the ancient Silk Road, which is crossing so-called "Junghar's Gate" on the present-time Kazakh - Chinese border. The climbing of Khan Tengri from North Inilchek glacier via Western Col (5A CC mountaineering, a bit more difficult than from South side) is perfect adventure and requires good physical conditions of participants, previous climbing skill is also strongly recommended. All the participants who will succesfuly climb the Khan Tengri peak will be awarded with special diploma.

NEW in season-2012: snow caves (10-persons each) on Chapaev peak spur at 6,100 m (Camp-3) and on the Western Col (6,000 m). It may help you to save the power, decreese the weight of your backpack and allows advanced climbers to climb from Chapayev peak to assault camp-6400 in one day! Local insurance is available! Duty rescue rangers at high camps for your safety!

Itinerary:

Day 1	Arrival to Almaty. Meeting at airport. Transfer to Karkara BC (2200 m). Tent accommodation (comfortable "walk-in" 2-person tents on wooden pedestal).
Days 2,3	Acclimatization days. Ascent to any surrounded peak (4000-4500 m) - recommended.
Day 4	Helicopter flight to North Inylchek BC (30 min, approx. 4000 m) on the side morain of North Inilchek glacier. Rest.
Day 5	Acclimatization day.
Days 6-17	Climbing to Khan Tengri summit along the Chapaev Peak and Western Col route (see climbing map). The intermediate camps are at the following heights: Camp 1 at 4800 m, Camp 2 at 5600 m, Camp 3 at 5900 m and Camp 4 at 6400 m. Our guides usually fix ropes at the most difficult places of the route (5200-5500 m, 5700-5900 m, and 6200-6750 m).
Day 18	Day of rest.
Days 19-21	Spare days for the case of bad weather etc.
Day 22	Helicopter flight down to Karkara BC. Tent accommodation.
Day 23	Return to Almaty. Hotel accommodation (***DBL, BB).
Day 24	Transfer to airport. Departure from Almaty.

Note: the itinerary of above is draft one and should be subject to adjust to meet weather conditions, helicopter flights schedule, participants' wishes, etc.

Cost (variant 1, full package): 1 pax- EUR 1650 per person, 2-3 pax- EUR 1500 per person, 4-5 pax- EUR 1450 per person, 6+ pax- EUR 1400 per person. This option is for experienced mountaineers or for those who prefer the self-guided climbing.
Included: visa support, meeting and seeing off in Almaty airport, OVIR (immigration police) registration , all transfers, interpreter’s service, 1 night hotel accommodation in Almaty (DBL BB), staffs insurance, royalty fee, border zone permit, ecological fee, reconfirmation of tickets, charter helicopter flight to BC and return (no luggage weight limit!), “family tents” with mattresses and wooden pads in BC, 3 times a day hot meals in BC (no FB stay limit in BC!), lunch-box on the way to Karkara BC and back to Almaty, mess tent with tables and chairs in BC, kitchen tent, cooking accessories in BC, cook service, sauna or hot shower in BC (no visits limitation!), toilet in BC, evacuation of debris from BC, medical aid in the BC (including complete set of oxygen equipment – mask, reducer, cylinder), climbing consultations by experienced guide, long-range radio communication Karkara BC - Glacier BC - helicopter - Almaty, fixed ropes support, 2 snow caves for 10 persons on the Peak Chapayev shoulder (6100 m) and on the Western Saddle (6000 m), walkie-talkie for climbing, electricity (220 V 50 Hz VAC) in BC for mess tents lighting and charging batteries, rescue rangers team registration, cloak room in BC, weather forecast.

Cost (variant 2, Karkara-Karkara package): - EUR 1250 per person (1+ pax) . This option is for experienced mountaineers or for those who prefer the self-guided climbing and do not need transport and accommodation to/from Almaty or Bishkek (self-arranged, already in Almaty, special itinerary etc).
Included: visa support, interpreter’s service, staffs insurance, royalty fee, border zone permit, ecological fee, reconfirmation of tickets, charter helicopter flight to BC and return (no luggage weight limit!), “family tents” with mattresses and wooden pads in BC, 3 times a day hot meals in BC (no FB stay limit in BC!), mess tent with tables and chairs in BC, kitchen tent, cooking accessories in BC, cook service, sauna or hot shower in BC (no visits limitation!), toilet in BC, evacuation of debris from BC, medical aid in the BC (including complete set of oxygen equipment – mask, reducer, cylinder), climbing consultations by experienced guide, long-range radio communication Karkara BC - Glacier BC - helicopter - Almaty, fixed ropes support, 2 snow caves for 10 persons on the Peak Chapayev shoulder (6100 m) and on the Western Saddle (6000 m), walkie-talkie for climbing, electricity (220 V 50 Hz VAC) in BC for mess tents lighting and charging batteries, rescue rangers team registration, cloak room in BC, weather forecast.

Cost (variant 3, Karkara-Karkara econom package): EUR 1000 per person (1+ pax). This option is for experienced mountaineers or for those who prefer the self-guided climbing and provide their own transportation and accommodation to/from Almaty and cooking in BC.
Included: visa support, royalty fee, border zone permit, ecological fee, staffs insurance, reconfirmation of tickets, charter helicopter flight to BC and return, rescue rangers team registration, place for the tent in BC, tent protection in BC, toilet in BC, cloak room in BC, evacuation of debris from BC, medical consultations in the BC, climbing consultations by experienced guide, long-range radio communication Karkara BC - Glacier BC - helicopter - Almaty, fixed ropes support, 2 snow caves for 10 persons on the Peak Chapayev shoulder (6100 m) and on the Western Saddle (6000 m), walkie-talkie for climbing, electricity (220 V 50 Hz VAC) in BC for batteries charging, hotel reservation for Almaty and Bishkek, weather forecast.

Cost (variant 3, full guided climbing): . This option is for those who prefer all-arranged guided climbing. us for an offer! No group size limit! Limited offer!
Included: visa support, meeting and seeing off in Almaty airport, OVIR (immigration police) registration , all transfers, interpreter’s service, 1 night hotel accommodation in Almaty (DBL BB), staffs insurance, royalty fee, border zone permit, ecological fee, reconfirmation of tickets, charter helicopter flight to BC and return (no luggage weight limit!), “family tents” with mattresses and wooden pads in BC, 3 times a day hot meals in BC (no FB stay limit in BC!), lunch-box on the way to Karkara BC and back to Almaty, mess tent with tables and chairs in BC, kitchen tent, cooking accessories in BC, cook service, sauna or hot shower in BC (no visits limitation!), toilet in BC, evacuation of debris from BC, medical aid in the BC (including complete set of oxygen equipment – mask, reducer, cylinder), climbing consultations by experienced guide, long-range radio communication Karkara BC - Glacier BC - helicopter - Almaty, fixed ropes support, 2 snow caves for 10 persons on the Peak Chapayev shoulder (6100 m) and on the Western Saddle (6000 m), walkie-talkie for climbing, electricity (220 V 50 Hz VAC) in BC for mess tents lighting and charging batteries, rescue rangers team registration, cloak room in BC, experienced climbing guide service, weather forecast.

Not included (all variants): Travel to and from Almaty, visa expenses, alcoholic beverages and other luxuries, personal items, insurance and cost of rescue team support (copies of insurance are required!), food away from BC.

Not included: Travel to and from Almaty, visa expenses, alcoholic beverages and other luxuries, personal items, insurance and cost of rescue team support.

Options. The arrival and departure point can be changed with Bishkek. The climbing of Khan Tengri peak may be combined with climbing the Pobeda peak. Descent to North side (on the ascent path) can be changed with descent to South side (much easy!) with further helicopter flight to Akkol BC from the South Inilchek BC. Transfer to and from Bishkek from Almaty, hotel accommodation in Bishkek and Almaty (from * to *****), SGL accommodation (+EUR60) transfers in Bishkek and Almaty, additional excursions, medical service in BCs, climbing guide and porter service, gasoline and butane gas, gas catridges for stoves at BC, changes the dates of helicopter flights and transfers, additional days at BCs, special food for climbing (ask for the list!). If you change the arrival point to Bishkek, you can order special pre-departure acclimatization trip in neighbour Ala-Archa gorge (see below).

Ala-Archa acclimatization trip (recommended)

Fixed dates: July, 16-22 (for July, 22 - August, 14 full guided expedition)

Day 1. Arrival to Bishkek. Meeting at airport. Transfer to the hotel (you can leave extra gear here). Transfer to Ala-Archa mountain base. Shale accommodation (DBL BB);
Day 2. Ascent to Ratzeka Hut. Tent accommodation.
Day 3. Climbing of Uchitel (The Teacher) peak, Descent to Ratzeka.
Days 4-6. Climbing up Aksai Glacier. Attempt on 2nd Tower of Korona Peak. Descent to Ratzeka.
Day 7. Descent to Ala Archa. Transfer to Bishkek. Hotel accommodation (DBL BB).

For Ala-Archa info please have a look here.

Cost: us for an offer!
Included: Meeting at airport, transfer airport-hotel- Ala Archa and Ala Archa- hotel (car or minibus), 1 night shale accommodation in Ala Archa (DBL BB), 3 times a day hot meals on climbing, tent and rope rental, climbing guide, porter to carry the gear from Ala Archa to Ratzeka and back.