Central Tien Shan: In the Shadow of Khan Tengri. 5000+ peaks climbing.

Region: Kyrghyzstan, Central Tien Shan, Saryjaz Range
Activity: mountaineering expedition
Trip Category: regular
Difficulty: medium to difficult (need of special skill and full set of mountaineering gear).
Season: July-August, best time - from July, 15 to August, 25
Tours to join: Karly Tau: July, 12 - 20 and July, 17 - 25 (full guided climbing + all logistics!); Karlytau + Kazakstan + Bayancol (all in one package!) July, 22 - August, 06 .

Important notice (for those who have problems with the insurance for Kyrgyzstan): the climbing insurance is now available locally in Almaty for EUR 4 p/day.

Tien Shan - "The Sky Mountains" is one of the world's biggest and highest (up to 7,439 m - peak Pobeda) mountain land on the south of Central Asia where virtually all kinds of mountain outdoors are possible - from easy trekking to extremely difficult mountaineering. The entire area keeps ecological purity and untouched wild nature so far.

Many newbee climbers dream for the ascent on 7000+ peaks, and many of them - on Khan Tengri especial. But for these ascents one must have previous climbing background, including techical and high altitude (5000+ at the least) ones. We offer some very nice 5000+ peaks in Khan Tengri North neighbourhood which you can climb in joint team with the support of an experienced climbing guide/coach, with all the logistics included (Variant 1 below). The only you have to bring is the set of personal gear (ask us for a list!). After this expedition you can proceed on Khan, Pobeda or whatever you want!

The list of these 5000+ peaks includes Karly Tau (5450 m), Kazakhstan (5761 m), and Bayankol (5791 m). The ascent routes on these peaks are laid basically along the flat glaciers with crevices and snow ridges, requiring the minimum skills of using crampons, ice-axes and ropes.

We offer 2 fixed dates expeditions, the 9-days full guided Karly Tau and 20 days unguided (all 3 summits at once!):

Variant 1. Karlytau (5450 m), 9 days, fixed dates: July, 12-20 and July, 17-25
Itinerary:

Day 1	Arrival to Almaty. Meeting at airport. Transfer to Karkara BC (2200 m). Tent accommodation (comfortable "walk-in" 2-person tents on wooden pedestal).
Day 2	Acclimatization day. Acclimatization ascent to Bas Karkara Peak, 4059 m.
Day 3	Helicopter flight to North Inylchek BC (30 min, approx. 4000 m) on the side morain of North Inilchek glacier. Rest.
Days 4-7	Ascent to Karly Tau Plateau. Beautiful view to the North Face of Khan Tengri Peak and other peaks of Tengri Tag Range - Przhevalskogo Peak, Shatry Peak, Saladina Peak etc. Ascent along the plateau to the Pass of Sary Jaz Pass and further up along the snow ridge to the summit. Descent the reverse way (see climbing map 1 and map 2).
Day 8	Helicopter flight down to Karkara BC. Tent accommodation.
Day 9	Spare day for a case of bad weather. Return to Almaty.

Note: the itinerary of above is draft one and should be subject to adjust to meet weather conditions, helicopter flights schedule, participants' wishes, etc.

Cost (full guided fixed dates package): EUR 900 (no group size limit!)
Included: visa support, meeting and seeing off in Almaty airport, OVIR (immigration police) registration , all transfers, interpreter’s service, 1 night hotel accommodation in Almaty (DBL BB), staffs insurance, royalty fee, border zone permit, ecological fee, reconfirmation of tickets, charter helicopter flight to BC and return (no luggage weight limit!), “family tents” with mattresses and wooden pads in BC, 3 times a day hot meals in BC (no FB stay limit in BC!), lunch-box on the way to Karkara BC and back to Almaty, mess tent with tables and chairs in BC, kitchen tent, cooking accessories in BC, cook service, sauna or hot shower in BC (no visits limitation!), toilet in BC, evacuation of debris from BC, medical aid in the BC (including complete set of oxygen equipment – mask, reducer, cylinder), climbing consultations by experienced guide, long-range radio communication Karkara BC - Glacier BC - helicopter - Almaty, walkie-talkie for climbing, electricity (220 V 50 Hz VAC) in BC for mess tents lighting and charging batteries, rescue rangers team registration, cloak room in BC, weather forecast, experienced climbing guide service (+ assistance guides for each 3-4 climbers), group climbing and camping gear (ropes, tents, cooking utensil, stoves, gaz cartridges), climbing food.

Variant 2. Karlytau (5450 m) + Kazakhstan (5761 m) + Bayankol (5791 m) , 20 days, fixed dates: July, 12-20 and July, 22 - August, 06.
Itinerary:

Day 1

Arrival to Almaty. Meeting at airport. Transfer to Karkara BC (2200 m). Tent accommodation (comfortable "walk-in" 2-person tents on wooden pedestal).

Day 2

Acclimatization day. Acclimatization ascent to Bas Karkara Peak, 4059 m.

Days 3-4

Helicopter flight to North Inylchek BC (30 min, approx. 4000 m) on the side morain of North Inilchek glacier. Rest.

Days 5-6

Ascent to Karly Tau Plateau. Beautiful view to the North Face of Khan Tengri Peak and other peaks of Tengri Tag Range - Przhevalskogo Peak, Shatry Peak, Saladina Peak etc. Ascent along the plateau (intermediate camp-4600 here!) to the Pass of Sary Jaz Pass and further up along the snow ridge to the summit. Descent the reverse way (see climbing map 1 and map 2).

Day 7

Ascent to Kazakhstan Peak (5761 m) from the same intermediate camp on Karly Tau plateau.

Day 8

Descent to North Inylchek BC (4000 m).

Days 9-10

Rest in BC (4000 m).

Days 11-12

Ascent to Bayankol Peak (5791 m) via Odinatsati Pass ("The Pass of 11", 5000 m).

Day 13

Helicopter flight down to Karkara BC. Tent accommodation.

Day 14

Return to Almaty. Hotel accommodation.

Day 15

Transfer to airport. Departure from Almaty.

Note: the itinerary of above is draft one and should be subject to adjust to meet weather conditions, helicopter flights schedule, participants' wishes, etc.

Cost (unguided fixed dates package): EUR 1000 (no group size limit!)
Included: visa support, meeting and seeing off in Almaty airport, OVIR (immigration police) registration , all transfers, interpreter’s service, 1 night hotel accommodation in Almaty (DBL BB), staffs insurance, royalty fee, border zone permit, ecological fee, reconfirmation of tickets, charter helicopter flight to BC and return (no luggage weight limit!), “family tents” with mattresses and wooden pads in BC, 3 times a day hot meals in BC (no FB stay limit in BC!), lunch-box on the way to Karkara BC and back to Almaty, mess tent with tables and chairs in BC, kitchen tent, cooking accessories in BC, cook service, sauna or hot shower in BC (no visits limitation!), toilet in BC, evacuation of debris from BC, medical aid in the BC (including complete set of oxygen equipment – mask, reducer, cylinder), climbing consultations by experienced guide, long-range radio communication Karkara BC - Glacier BC - helicopter - Almaty, walkie-talkie for climbing, electricity (220 V 50 Hz VAC) in BC for mess tents lighting and charging batteries, rescue rangers team registration, cloak room in BC, weather forecast.

Options: experienced climbing guide and climbing porters service, gear rental, climbing food. Arrival and departure point may be changet to Bishkek.