Pamir: Communism (Somoni) and Korjenevskoy peaks climbing. 29 days, from Dushanbe.

See also: Communism (Somoni) and Korjenevskoy peaks climbing. 29 days, from Dushanbe via Jirgital

Region: Tadjikistan, Pamir, Academii Nauk (Academy Of Sciences) range
Activity: mountaineering expedition
Trip Category: regular
Difficulty: very difficult/challenge, need of special skill and full set of mountaineering gear. 2 nights hotel accommodation, 25 nights at tents.
Season: July-August. Helicopter flights from Dushanbe (or Jirgital) to Moskvina BC: July, 22; July, 25; July, 29; August, 01. Days of return flights from BC (or Jirgital): August, 17; August, 20; August, 26; August, 27. (Note: this timetable may be subject to change!)
Special offer: Lenin peak + Communism (Somoni) and/or Korjenevskoy peaks ( )!

Pamir - one of the interpretation of the origin of the word is "The Roof of The World" is one of the world's biggest and highest (up to 7,495 m - Communism peak) mountain land on the south of Central Asia where virtually all kinds of mountain outdoors are possible - from medium trekking to extremely difficult mountaineering. The entire area keeps ecological purity and untouched wild nature so far because of practically absent of industrial development and very rare population.

Communism Peak (renamed to "Ismoili Somoni") - the highest mountain of Tajikistan and former USSR - is located in Akademii Nauk (Academy of Sciences) Range. Discovered by Tadjik Complex Expedition (leader - N.P. Gorbunov) in 1932. First ascent (East Ridge) - Sept. 3, 1933, Eugeny Abalakov and Nikolay Gorbunov.

The mountain's name has an interesting and very politized history. The 1st name was Pik Garmo until 1933, then it was changed to Stalin Peak after the current leader of Soviet Union. If you take a look at the area's map, the surrounded names are suited the Uncle Joe: NKVD and Beriya (after the predessor of KGB and it's bloody leader) glaciers and so on. In 1962, after Nikita Khrustcev took over the ortodox stalinists in Politburo, it was renamed to Communism Peak. After the collapse of USSR, in 1998 it was next time changed to Ismaili Somoni (Ismail Samani, Ismoil Somoni), but so far the peak is widely known as Communism 'cause not very much people know who the great guy Somoni is (in fact, it is believed he was the foundator of ancient Tadjik state).

Communism Peak, 7495 m, is a huge mountain looks like a giant heavily glaciated wall, despite it rising above a dry, barren region. The common way (via Borodkin Spur and Dushanbe Peak) lays through interesting natural phenomena: Pamirskoye Firnovoe Plato (PFP, Pamir's Neve Plateau)- neve and snow-covered flat ground of a size of few football stadiums, rised to the altitude of about 6,000 m! Climbing Communism peak is real mountaineering adventure involving full set of mountainering (mostly ice) gear and it needs good acclimatization and previous mountaineering background. It is good idea to climb Korjenevskoy peak 1st as a preparation for Communism peak. Climb of Lenin peak before these two would be very good idea.

Peak Korjenevskoy, 7105 m (also known as Evgenii Korjenevskoy Peak), is located in Akademii Nauk (Academy of Sciences) Range as well, very close to Communism peak. It was discovered Aug. 10, 1910 by Russian Middle Asia explorer Nikolay Korjenevskiy, named by him after his wife, Evgeniya. First ascend - in 1953 by Leningrad mountaineers, leader - A. Ugarov.

The common climbing route to Peak Korjenevskoy looks like giant "Z" letter. The unique feature of this route is that the 1st high-altitude camp (camp-1 at 5100 m) stays at absolutely dry place (on rock), so it it relatively warm there and no need to melt snow (pure spring is out there!). Moreover, the way to this camp is no more than beaten trail! But while go further, especially from itermediate camp-5800 (no much need to stay here!), and you would check the taste of full-scale ice and rock climbing!

Important notice. This climbing trip is intended for experienced mountaineers only! Previous high-altitude mountaineering background is mandatory! Using climbing guide's and porter support is strongly recommended!

Itinerary (variant 1, from Dushanbe, full package):

Note: the itinerary of above is draft one and should be subject to adjust to meet weather conditions, helicopter flights schedule, participants' wishes, etc.

Cost: EUR 1850 per person (no group size limit!)
Included: OVIR registration, meeting/seeing off at airport, transfers in Dushanbe, flight Dushanbe-Moskvina BC (up to 30 kg payload per person, EUR3 for each additional kilo) and return, 2 nights hotel accomodation in Dushanbe (DBL BB, **), all permits and local fees, full board in BC: tent accommodation (2-4 person tents), 3 time a day hot meals, toilet, sauna, hot shower and cloak room service, in BC, 1st aid medical service, guide-instructor and iterpreter.

Not included: Travel to and from Dushanbe, visa fees, alcoholic beverages and other luxuries, personal items, insurance and cost of rescue team support, food away from BC, climbing guide and porters service.
Options. The arrival and departure point can be changed with Bishkek, Almaty or Tashkent. Hotel accommodation in Dushanbe, Bishkek, Tashkent and Almaty (from * to *****), transfers in Bishkek, Tashkent and Almaty, visa support, additional excursions, climbing guide and porter service, butane gas catridges and catridge refill for stoves in BC, radio (including walkie-talkie rental) and sat communications, additional days in BC, gear rental (ask us for the price-list!).

Communism and Korjenevskoy peaks climbing. 29 days, from Dushanbe via Jirgital

Itinerary (Variant 2, from Dushanbe via Jirgital, light package):

Note: the itinerary of above is draft one and should be subject to adjust to meet weather conditions, helicopter flights schedule, participants' wishes, etc.

Cost (light package): EUR 1050 per person (no group size limit!).
Included: OVIR registration, transfer airport-hotel-airport, 2 nights private hotel accommodation in Dushanbe, transfer Dushanbe-Jirgital and return, helicopter flight Jirgital -Moskvina BC (up to 30 kg payload per person, EUR 3 for each additional kilo) and return, all permits, services in BC - places for tents, water, toilet, electricity, 1st aid.

Not included: Travel to and from Dushanbe, visa fees, services in BC, personal items, insurance and cost of rescue team support, food away from BC.

Options. The arrival and departure point can be changed with Bishkek, Almaty or Tashkent. Hotel accommodation in Bishkek, Tashkent and Almaty (from * to *****), visa support, meeting/transfers in Dushanbe, Bishkek, Tashkent and Almaty, additional excursions, tent or hut accommodation (2-person tents and huts) and meals in BC, (including full board option), sauna and hot shower in BC, guide-instructor and iterpreter in BC, radio (including walkie-talkie rental) and sat communications, climbing guide and porter service, butane gas catridges and catridge refill for stoves in BC, gear rental, single supplement (ask us for the price-list!).

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