Pamir and Tien Shan: Lenin peak + Khan Tengri peak climbing. 33 days, from Bishkek.

Region: Kyrghyzstan, Pamir, Zaalaisky range and Central Tien Shan, Tengri Tag range.
Activity: mountaineering expedition
Trip Category: special
Difficulty: difficult, need of special skill and full set of mountaineering gear.
Season: July-August. Tour to join: July, 07- August, 09, full guided climbing! Leader on climbing: Georgy Regetsiy - Master of Sport on Outdoor sports, "Snow Leopard". us for other possible dates!
Special offer: Lenin peak + Communism (Somoni) and/or Korjenevskoy peaks ( us!)
Special offer: Lenin peak + Muztag Ata peaks!

The idea of this expedition is to cover 2 highest mountain areas of Central Asia at once. Taking into account Khan Tengri peak is more technical than Lenin peak (a bit lower though) and the fact that the climbing season for Lenin opens earlier, we put Lenin 1st as training and preparation for Khan Tengri. The special feature of this trip (except excellent scenery and perfect climbing of course) is the entire expedition takes place within one state- Kyrgyzstan, with has very friendly visa regulations so you can avoid usual visa troubles, save your time, money and nerves and stick only on enjoy your trip!

Pamir - one of the interpretation of the origin of the word is "The Roof of The World" is one of the world's biggest and highest (up to 7,495 m - Communism peak) mountain land on the south of Central Asia where virtually all kinds of mountain outdoors are possible - from medium trekking to extremely difficult mountaineering. The entire area keeps ecological purity and untouched wild nature so far because of practically absent of industrial development and very rare population.

The ice wall of Lenin Peak (7,134 m high, other name is Kuh-i-Garmo) is unforgettable scenery seen after you reach the Alaisky valley with very rare summer settlements of local herders ("jailau"). Visiting these settlements makes interesting social experience. The climbing of Lenin Peak from North (5A CC mountaineering) is perfect adventure and recommended as preparation to climb much difficult peaks (Communism, Pobeda, Khan-Tengri) due to very few technical climbing is involved but you can obtain excellent high-altitude acclimatization. All the participants who will succesfuly climb the Lenin peak will be awarded with special diploma. Take a look at the route description.

Tien Shan - "The Sky Mountains" is one of the world's biggest and highest (up to 7,439 m - peak Pobeda) mountain land on the south of Central Asia where virtually all kinds of mountain outdoors are possible - from easy trekking to extremely difficult mountaineering. The entire area keeps ecological purity and untouched wild nature so far.

The marble pyramid of Khan Tengri (7,010 m high) attracts the people's attention for thousands years - it is seen from the ancient Silk Road, which is crossing so-called "Junghar's Gate" on the present-time Kazakh - Chinese border. The climbing of Khan Tengri from South Inilchek glacier via Western Col (5A CC mountaineering) is perfect adventure and requires good physical conditions of participants, previous climbing skill is also strongly recommended. All the participants who will succesfuly climb the Khan Tengri peak will be awarded with special diploma. Take a look at the route description and climbing map.

Itinerary:

Day 1	Arrival to Bishkekt. Meeting at airport. Transfer to hotel ** (DBL BB or optional SGL).
Day 2	Flight Bishkek - Osh, meeting at airport, hotel accommodation ** DBL BB.
Day 3	Trahsfer Osh-Achik-Tash (the base camp on 3500 m aka "Onion Glade"), about 10 hrs drive on Pamirsky Trakt (Pamir Highway), high pass - 3615 m - en route. You make a stop for lunch in intermediate base "Taldyk" on Pamir Highway, we serve a variety of meals and drinks in a yurt (Kyrgyz national dwelling) which makes your trip less tiring! Tent accommodation (2 persons tents) at BC.
Day 4	Preparation day. Acclimatization ascent on Petrovskogo peak (4700 m) or Travellers Pass (4150 m) - recommended. Tent accommodation at BC.
Day 5	Climb to the Camp-1 (ABC, 4400 m) through Travellers' Pass (4150 m), about 5 hrs. Tent accommodation (2-persons tent) in ABC (4200 m).
Day 6	Climb to the Camp-2. 5300 m. Steep ice slope, crevasses, then traverse to so-called "Skovorodka" (flat area).
Day 7	Climb to the Camp-3. 6100 m, via the spur and Peak Razdelnaya (6200 m).
Day 8	Descent to the Camp-1 (ABC). Tent accommodation.
Day 9	Descent to the base camp 3500 m. Tent accommodation in BC.
Day 10	Day of rest. Tent accommodation in BC.
Day 11	Preparations for climbing (assault attempt). Tent accommodation in BC.
Days 12-14	Climb to the Camp-1 (ABC, 4200 m, tent accommodation), Camp-2 (5300 m) and Camp-3 (6100 m).
Day 15	Ascent of the summit 7134 m . Along the narrow ridge to the "Knife" (steep ice spur with fixed ropes), then on the rocky ridge to the plateau (6900-7000 m) and to the summit. Descent to the Camp-3 reverse way.
Day 16	Descent to the Camp-1 (ABC). Tent accommodation in ABC.
Day 17	Descent to the base camp. 3500 m. Tent accommodation in BC.
Day 18	Spare day for the case of bad weather.
Day 19	Transfer to Osh (lunch stop in "Taldyk" intermediate yurt camp). Hotel accommodation ** DBL BB. Optional excursion to holy Sulaimon Hill and cave museum.
Day 20	Flight to Bishkek. Overnight in hotel (**DBL BB).
Day 21	Transfer Bishkek– Karkara BC (2200 m), 460 km, hut accommodation.
Day 22	Helicopter flight to BC (30 min, about 4,050 m) on the left-side morain of South Inilchek glacier. Rest.
Day 23	Preparations for climbing, consultations.
Day 24	Hiking (about 6 km) across the S. Inilchek glacier. Placing the Camp 1 (ABC, 4,200 m, see climbing map) on the right side moraine near the junction with Semenov glacier.
Day 25	Climbing up the Semenov glacier up to Camp 3 at 5,900 m at the foothill of Western Col (note: start should take place very early in the morning due to ice and stone fall danger from the slopes of Chapayev peak).
Day 26	Climbing up to Camp-4 (6400 m).
Day 27	Assault ascent up to the summit (7,010 m) along the Western spur. Return to the Camp 3.
Day 28	Descent to the BC.
Days 29, 30	Spare days for the case of bad weather.
Day 31	Helicopter flight to Karkara BC and transfer to Bishkek. Accommodation in hotel (**DBL BB).
Day 32	Day in Bishkek. Hotel accommodation (**DBL BB).
Day 33	Transfer to airport. Departure from Bishkek.

Note: the itinerary of above is draft one and should be subject to adjust to meet weather conditions, participants' wishes, etc.

Costs (full package, no group size limit!): please for an offer

Included: OVIR registration, meeting/seen off and transfers in Bishkek, flight Bishkek - Osh and back, transfer Osh - Onion Glade BC and back, lunch in intermediate camp on Pamir Highway during transfer Osh-Onion Glade-Osh, transfers Bishkek - Karkara BC, Karkara- Bishkek, flight to Khan Tengri BC and return (30 kg free of charge, $2 each extra kg), 4 nights hotel accommodation in Bishkek (** DBL BB) and 2 nights in Osh (** DBL BB), all permits, Onion Glade BC service: full board in BC and ABC: tent accommodation (2 persons tents) and 3 time a day hot meals, toilet, cloak room and sauna in BC and ABC, dining/rest yurt in BC and ABC, electricity in BC and ABC, medical aid in BC and ABC, guide-instructor and iterpreter in BC and ABC, rescue rangers team registration; service in Khan Tengri BC: full board in BCs: tent accommodation, 3 time a day hot meals, hot shower, cloak room, sauna and toilet, climbing consultations, long-range (BC-Bishkek) radio communication, walkie-talkie on climbing, medical aid in BC, electricity in BC, registration with rescue rangers.
Not included: Travel to and from Bishkek, visa fees, alcoholic beverages and other luxuries, personal items, insurance, food away from BC, climbing guide and porters.

Cost (full guided climbing): please for an offer.
Included: the same as full package + the service of experienced climbing guide and expedition leader + walkie-talkie for Lenin peak climbing as well.

Options. The arrival and departure point can be changed with Tashkent or Almaty. Hotel accommodation in Bishkek, Tashkent and Almaty (from * to *****), SGL accommodation, transfers in Tashkent and Almaty, additional excursions (Sulaimoni Hill in Osh is recommended), climbing guide and porter service, radio communications (walkie-talkie), gasoline and butane gas for stoves at BC and ABC, satellite communication, e-mail, bar, disco, flash cards to CD and DVD record, special climbing food supply, gear rental, additional days in BC and ABC.

Important visa notice. For this trip you need only one Kyrgyz visa. You can obtain it upon arrival (for 1 month) then we prolong it for the entire trip on the spot.

Tailor-made trip. We can offer you any personalized variant of the tour with any set of services for your choice! Just us!