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Marble Wall climbing. Central Tien Shan.
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Tien Shan  

Tien Shan: Marble Wall. 18 days, from Almaty or Bishkek.

See also: Marble Wall and Khan Tengri.

Region: Kyrghyzstan, Central Tien Shan, Meridional range
Activity: mountaineering expedition
Trip Category: regular
Difficulty: medium/difficult (4B UIAA), some need of special skill and full set of mountaineering gear. 1 night hotel accommodation, 13 nights at tents.
Season: July-August (July, 20 - August, 31 recommended).
Fixed departure: July, 06-23 (Tour to Join full guided + all logistics!)

Tien Shan - "The Sky Mountains" is one of the world's biggest and highest (up to 7,439 m - peak Pobeda) mountain land on the south of Central Asia where virtually all kinds of mountain outdoors are possible - from easy trekking to extremely difficult mountaineering. The entire area keeps ecological purity and untouched wild nature so far.

Marble Wall peak is situated at the altitude of 6,400 m above the sea level, and belonged to Meridionalny (Meridional) Range mountain system, at the Kazakhstan-Chinese border. No climbing is conducted right along the wall due to frequent icefalls. The peak was named because of it's marble outcrop. It is not much snow in winter there because it is blown away by the northeastern wind. Daytime temperature in summer at the altitude of 2000 m is reaches +24...+26°C. At night the temperature falls down to +5...+8°C. The Marble Wall glacier is a source of two small rivers: Ashi-Tor and Kesken-Tas, further confluence of which forms the river of Bayankol, flowing to the North. The Base Camp was named after the river.

Day 1 Arrival to Almaty (Bishkek). Meeting at airport. Transfer to Base Camp (BC) Karkara (290 km, 2200 m). Accommodation in comfortable double-covered tents for 2-3 persons or in the tents for one for individual clients. 3 hot meals daily, showers and toilet facilities.
Days 2,3 Acclimatization days. Recommended climbing of neighbour Bas Karkara peak (4059 m). Helicopter flight up to Bayankol Base Camp (3300 m) - 35 min.
Day 4 Hiking from the BC across the Keskentas River and approach the beginning of Bayankolski and Marble Wall Glaciers (5 hrs). Overnight in tents at Camp 1 (3400 m). See climbing map.
Day 5 Acclimatization. Hiking from Marble Wall glacier to the starting point of the route opposite Pogranichnik (Frontier Guard) Mountain (5258 m). Overnight in tents at Camp II (4600 m).
Day 6 Climbing up two slopes (about 40°, length 200-250 m, 25-30 m along the ice), then small ice wall (about 40°, length 20-30 m). Ascent to the summit of Pogranichnik Mountain (5258 m). Descent down to Camp1 (3400 m).
Day 7 Rest day.
Day 8 Ascent to Camp II (4600 m).
Day 9 Ascent to the summit of Pogranichnik Mountain, overnight in tent at Camp III (5258 m).
Day 10 Proceed along the right slope to the flat ground, then a climb of 30°-50° , about 300 m leading to the ice wall (15°, 30 m). A sandy path (40°, 15-20 m) leads to a sharp incline of 100 m ending at the plateau (6146 m). Overnight in tents (Camp IV).
Day 11 Climbing along the slope (200 m) leading to the rocky wall (40°-50°, 25-30 m). Then along the snow-covered ground towards another steep rocky slope. It should be passed on the left side, the proceed to the Marble Wall through the rocky field. Summit Marble Wall, then return to the last overnight stay (Camp IV, 6146 m).
Day 12 Return to Camp III (4600 m).
Day 13 Return to Camp II (3400 m).
Day 14 Return to the Bayankol base camp.
Day 15 Spare day for the case of bad weather.
Day 16 Helicopter flight to Karkara BC.
Day 17 Drive to Almaty (Bishkek). Cititour (Almaty, 3 hrs). Overnight in the hotel (DBL).
Day 18 Departure from Almaty (Bishkek).

Note: the itinerary of above is draft one and should be subject to adjust to meet weather conditions, helicopter flights shedule, participants' wishes, etc.

Cost fixed dates full guided all logistics: $2300 p/p (no minimal group size limit!).
Included: OVIR registration, meeting and seeing off in Almaty airport, interpreter service, all transfers in Almaty and Almaty - Karkara BC - Almaty, helicopter flight Karkara BC- Bayankol BC, lunch-box on the way to Karkara BC and back to Almaty, all permits, royalty fee, full board meals in BC: tent accommodation (2 persons tent) and 3 times hot meals a day, hot shower and toilet facilities, electricity at BC, medical aid at BC, long-range (BC-Almaty) radio communications and walkie-talkie for climbing, climbing consultation, cloak room, 1 night hotel accomodation in Almaty or Bishkek (DBL), experienced climbing guide service, guide assistants for each of 4 climbers; group equipment: 2 and 4 persons high-altitude tents, ropes, gas stoves, gas cartridges, cooking utensil, climbing food (the list may be adjusted individually).

Not included: Travel to and from Almaty, visa fees, alcoholic beverages and other luxuries, personal items, insurance and cost of rescue team support, climbing porters service.

Options. Visa support. The arrival and departure point can be changed with Bishkek. The climbing of Marble Wall peak may be combined with climbing the Khan Tengri peak. Transfer to and from Almaty from Bishkek, hotel accommodation in Bishkek and Almaty (from * to *****), transfers in Bishkek and Almaty, additional excursions.

Tien Shan. Almaty. Arashan complex.
Almaty. Arashan bath complex.
Central Tien Shan. Marble Wall peak.
Marble Wall peak (6400 m) from North side.
entral Tien Shan. Marble Wall peak fom South.
Marble Wall peak as seen from South (Khan Tengri North, camp-1).
Central Tien Shan. Marble Wall climbing map.
Marble Wall climbing map.



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