Tien Shan: Pobeda peak climbing. 29 days, from Almaty.

See also: Pobeda peak climbing. 27 days, from Bishkek.

Region: Kyrghyzstan, Central Tien Shan, Kokshaal Too range
Activity: mountaineering expedition
Trip Category: regular
Difficulty: extremely difficult (5B UIAA), need of special skill and full set of mountaineering gear. Warning! The route is potentially very dangerous, mainly due to weather conditions and high altitudes (temperatures below -30 °C, hurricane winds, long staying at the altitudes above 7,000 m)!
Season: July-August.
Helicopter flights schedule (Karkara BC - glacial BCs - Karkara): July, 03; 10; 17; 19; 24; 26; 31 August, 02, 07, 09; 14; 16; 21; 23; 28 (Note: this scedule may be subject to change!)

Tien Shan - "The Sky Mountains" is one of the world's biggest and highest mountain land on the south of Central Asia where virtually all kinds of mountain outdoors are possible - from easy trekking to extremely difficult mountaineering. Pobeda peak (7,439 m) is the highest summit of this land. The entire area keeps ecological purity and untouched wild nature so far.

The northern steep slopes of Pobeda peak is covered with great amounts of ice and snow and formes a giant wall above 7,000 m high and 4 km long. Practically uninterrupted strong winds which raise snowstorms make the climbing really extreme adventure. It is said that the ascent of Pobeda Peak can be compared with the conquest of Everest from the northern side. The most difficult routes (as well as the 1st ascent route in 1956, leader - V.M. Abalakov) lie on the center of northern wall of Pobeda and from her east spurs, but the ascents usually are accomplished along the most safe way - over Vaja Pshavela (West Pobeda) peak from the Dikiy pass. We offer the climbing by this relatively safe route with acclimatization ascent to Khan Tengri Camp 2 at 5300 m. All the participants who will succesfuly climbed the Pobeda peak will be awarded with special diploma.

Itinerary:

Day 1	Arrival to Almaty. Meeting at airport. Transfer to Karkara BC (2200 m). Tent accommodation (comfortable 2-person tents on wooden pedestal).
Days 2,3	Acclimatization days. Ascent to any surrounded peak (4000-4500 m) - recommended.
Day 4	Helicopter flight to BC (30 min, about 4,000 m) on the left-side morain of South Inilchek glacier. Rest.
Days 5, 6	Acclimatization days.
Day 7	Acclimatization day. Preparations for climbing (1st acclimatization ascent), consultations.
Day 8	Hiking (about 6 km) across the S. Inilchek glacier. Placing the Camp 1 (ABC, 4,200 m) on the right side moraine near the junction with Semenov glacier.
Day 9	Climbing up the Semenov glacier up to Camp 2 at 5,300 m or Camp-3 at 5,900 m (note: start should take place very early in the morning due to ice and stone fall danger from the slopes of Chapayev peak). Note. Alternatively, you can climb Northern Dikiy or Dikiy passes for acclimatization.
Day 10	Descent down to BC.
Day 11	Day of rest.
Day 12	Day of rest. Preparations for climbing (assault attempt).
Day 13	Trekking (about 15 km) along the S. Inilchek and Zvezdochka glaciers to the pedestal of Northern Wall and Dikiy pass.
Day 14	Climbing up (ice climbing through icefall) the Dikiy pass (5,200 m).
Days 15, 16	Climbing the West Pobeda (6,918 m) along the nothern spur. Placing the assault camp at 7,000 m.
Day 17	Assault ascent along the Western ridge (4 km traverse). Return to assault camp.
Days 18, 19	Descent to BC, rest.
Days 20-26	Extra days for the case of bad weather.
Day 27	Helicopter flight to Karkara BC. Tent accommodation. Rest.
Day 28	Transfer to Almaty. Hotel accommodation (***, DBL BB).
Day 29	Transfer to airport. Departure from Almaty.

Note: the itinerary of above is draft one and should be subject to adjust to meet weather conditions, helicopter flights schedule, etc. Other (harder) option for acclimatization is climbing not Khan Tengri up to Camp-5900 but the exact route on Pobeda up to 6400 m.

Costs (variant 1): 1 pax- EUR 1350 per person, 2-3 pax- EUR 1300 per person, 4-5 pax- EUR 1250 per person, 6+ pax- EUR 1200 per person. This option is for experienced mountaineers or for those who prefer the self-guided climbing.
Included: OVIR registration and LOI if needed, meeting/seeing off at Bishkek airport or railway station, transfers in Bishkek, transfers Bishkek - Karkara BC, Karkara- Bishkek, flight to BC and return (no weight limit!), hotel accomodation DBL BB in Bishkek (3 nights), all permits and local fees, full board in BCs: lodge and tent accommodation, 3 time a day hot meals, hot shower, cloak room, sauna and toilet, climbing consultations, long-range (BC-Bishkek) radio communication, walkie-talkie on climbing, fixed rope support, medical aid in BC, electricity in BC, registration with rescue rangers, changes of airflights and railway tickets if needed.

Cost (variant2, full package guided climbing): us for an offer! Discounts for large groups are available. This option is for those who prefer all-arranged guided climbing.
Included: OVIR registration and LOI if needed, meeting/seeing off at Bishkek airport or railway station, transfers in Bishkek, transfers Bishkek - Karkara BC, Karkara- Bishkek, flight to BC and return (no weight limit!), hotel accomodation DBL BB in Bishkek (3 nights), all permits and local fees, full board in BCs: lodge and tent accommodation, 3 time a day hot meals, hot shower, cloak room, sauna and toilet, climbing consultations, long-range (BC-Bishkek) radio communication, walkie-talkie on climbing, medical aid in BC, electricity in BC, registration with rescue rangers, fixed rope support, experienced climbing guide service (1 guide for 1-3 climbers), changes of airflights and railway tickets if needed.

Cost (variant 3, light package): EUR 800 Special discounts for orders made prior to March, 1!
Included: helicopter flight Karkara BC-glacial BC and return (30 kg free of charge, EUR 3 each extra kg), climbing consultations, medical consultations, rescue rangers team registration, ecology fee for BC site, long-distance radio telecommunication service, all permits, OVIR registration.

Not included (all variants): travel to and from Almaty, personal items, insurance and cost of rescue team support, food away from BC.
Options. The arrival and departure point can be changed with Bishkek. The climbing of Khan Tengri peak may be combined with climbing the Pobeda peak. Transfer to and from Almaty to Bishkek and back, hotel accommodation in Bishkek and Almaty (from * to *****), single supplement, transfers in Bishkek and Almaty, additional excursions, climbing guide and porter service, gasoline and butane gas cartridges refuel, gas catridges for stoves at BC, changes the dates of helicopter flights and transfers, additional days at BCs, gear rental (including high-altitude tents), food for climbing, sat communication, Internet access. Short-notice trip on prior agreement.