Free Korea: The North Wall

      Ala-Archa always attracted the climbers not only for her walls and severe disposition, but the contsenien position of huts on the approaches to these walls. 
     The region is really unique. There are interesting wall of Kirgis Ala-Too in the upper reaches of glacier: Free Korea peak, Crown Peak, Simagin peak, Bailyan Bashi peak, Semyonov Tienshansky peak, forming the tallest part of Central Kirgiz mountain range, which is called Aksy half shoe.
      Position of ranges defends a great glacier from warm south winds. The glacier Aksy determines the climate of region, severe and cold. Ice lobbies are going in the sky and attract to make daring climbings. And how many gold routes are awaiting there for championships!
      The nearest position of Bishkek city  (40 km), huts in different regions of gorge under complex walls make it accessible in winter. Climbing object had been noted for a long time - Free Korea Peak. North face of Free Korea Peak is compared with Grand Jorasse in Alps. They are alike. The route is logical, beautiful  and classic. It is mix route: ice + rock (cliffs).  It is going strait line in North wall`s break, between Bezzubkin and Mishlyaev routes along narrow ice river as freezed falls.
      It is stopped by two rock zones with sheer walls and cornice. Rock, forming these walls are monolithic as a rule, but there are some harts with very ruined rock.
      The route gives everything for the lovers to guess puzzles. It is ruined but monolithic, there are hot so many cracks are out of the way.  Steep cascade ice lovers will get hanged by beauties.
      We creeped on our bellies 900 meters of wall. If you imagine, what is this- to creep on the belly 900 meters even a new way - it`s  not so much. We needed 5 days. On freezed ice road in winter. The life during 5 days and nights from 3850 m till 4740 m. But  our bellies remember it. And our trousers, jackets, gloves confirm, that it was not sleeping. We left our shadows on the wall and it remembers warmth of our bodies.

February 23...27, 1997 - the two: Ruchkin A. & Puchinin A. climbed a new route up North Face Free Korea Peak - "Direct North wall" 910 m, 68 VI / A3+ (wall - 90)...