Korea: The North Wall
Ala-Archa always attracted
the climbers not only for her walls and severe disposition, but the
contsenien position of huts on the approaches to these walls.
The region is really unique. There are interesting wall of Kirgis Ala-Too
in the upper reaches of glacier: Free Korea peak, Crown Peak, Simagin
peak, Bailyan Bashi peak, Semyonov Tienshansky peak, forming the tallest
part of Central Kirgiz mountain range, which is called Aksy half shoe.
Position of ranges defends a great glacier from warm south winds. The
glacier Aksy determines the climate of region, severe and cold. Ice
lobbies are going in the sky and attract to make daring climbings. And
how many gold routes are awaiting there for championships!
nearest position of Bishkek city (40 km), huts in different
regions of gorge under complex walls make it accessible in winter. Climbing
object had been noted for a long time - Free Korea Peak. North face
of Free Korea Peak is compared with Grand Jorasse in Alps. They are
alike. The route is logical, beautiful and classic. It is mix
route: ice + rock (cliffs). It is going strait line in North wall`s
break, between Bezzubkin and Mishlyaev routes along narrow ice river
as freezed falls.
It is stopped by two rock zones with sheer walls and cornice. Rock,
forming these walls are monolithic as a rule, but there are some harts
with very ruined rock.
route gives everything for the lovers to guess puzzles. It is ruined
but monolithic, there are hot so many cracks are out of the way.
Steep cascade ice lovers will get hanged by beauties.
creeped on our bellies 900 meters of wall. If you imagine, what is this-
to creep on the belly 900 meters even a new way - it`s not so
much. We needed 5 days. On freezed ice road in winter. The life during
5 days and nights from 3850 m till 4740 m. But our bellies
remember it. And our trousers, jackets, gloves confirm, that it was
not sleeping. We left our shadows on the wall and it remembers warmth
of our bodies.
February 23...27, 1997 - the two: Ruchkin A. & Puchinin A.
climbed a new route up North Face Free Korea Peak - "Direct North wall"
910 m, 68 VI / A3+ (wall - 90)...