Communism (Ismail Somoni) peak.
Route description and climbing map.

Classic route from the North side through Borodkin Spur and PFP

Communism (Ismoil Somoni) peak climbing map.
Communism (Ismoil Somoni) peak climbing map.

Climb to Camp 1 (5100 m)

Hike up the right side of the Walter Glacier's moraine. Cross the glacier and further up to the ice-snow "pillow" under the sheer slope of Pamir Neve Plateau (Pamirskoe Firnovoe Plato - PFP). It is necessary to cross it as early as possible and at maximum speed. After "pillow" there is the rocky stretch, then the crest where C1 is set (about 6-7 hours). Usage of 2-3 ropes.

Climb to Camp 2 (5800 m)

Northern ridge (4-5 hrs). This part of the route is not technically difficult: wide snow-covered spur partially 35 to 40° steep. The camp is set in a trough. From 5100 m up to 5300 m there are 2-3 ropes, from 5300 m up to 5800 m the usage of the ropes is also necessary.

Climb to Camp 3 (6100 m). Camp "Vostok" ("The East").

Early start and ascent to the two-headed summit. Climbing is roped partially. Traverse up to the left to the top and then descent to PFP (4-5 hrs). From 5800 m up to 6000 m there are 4 ropes, from 6100 m up to 6200 m - 2 ropes. While descending to PFP- use 1-2 ropes to cross over a crevasse.

Climb to Camp 4 (6900 m) or (6700 m).

Early start and climb on the northern snow/ice slope of Mt. Peak Dushanbe (7-8 hrs). Climbing in partially roped. An ascent is technically easy. After ascent to Mt. Peak Dushanbe (7000 m) descend to the Camp- 6900.

Ascent to the summit 7495 m and descent to Camp 4 or Camp 2.

Early start and climb up the steep snow slope keeping the steep rocks on the right. Go straight to the summit and then back to Camp 4 (6900 m). 8-9 hrs.

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Climbing fotoreport