Pobeda peak (7438 m) expedition-98
Fotogallery with comments

Route: Karakol (former Przhevalsk) - Chon-Ashuu pass - Mayda-Adir frontier post (by truck) - South Iniltchek gl. (main supply by helicopter, staff - on foots) - acclimatization route to the Northern Dikiy pass - Khan Tengry peak (7010 m), climbing up to Camp-6300 - Dikiy pass - Vazha Pshavela (W. Pobeda) peak - Pobeda peak (7438 m).
Duration: August, 1998. Leader: Georgy Regetsiy. Members: Igor Sasov, Alexander Markeev, Viktor Dubovik, Nikolay Gonenko, Boris Efimov, Sergey Sorokin, (all - Omsk city, Russia),
Alexey Vasenkov, Vladimir Bondarev (both - Moscow, Russia). Authors of the photos: Regetsiy G., Bondarev V. Comments: Fedyaev I.

Warning! Difficult technical climbing is described below! The routes are very dangerous! To make an attempt to climb the Pobeda or Khan Tengri peaks you must have serious experience and special gear! Hiring climbing guides is also strongly recommended!

for more detailed view click on the thumbnail photo
The common place for most expeditions getting started to Pobeda and Khan Tengri peaks from Kirgizia is alpine base in the Karakol town (former Przhevalsk). It takes about 6 hr.. by truck crossing Chon-Ashuu pass to reach the frontier guard checkpoint Mayda-Adir from there. There are some helicopter's flights daily (30 min., $100 per person) from this point to BC (4000 m, S. Iniltchek gl.), or, alternatively, 3-4 day difficult walk. Central Tien Shan. Karakol mountaineering base.
There is a becoming dilapidated monument to the road's constructors on the way to Iniltchek. Central Tien Shan. Monument on the road to Inilchek.
Basically, you can reach the Maida-Adir by car, which was successfully demonstrated by the part of our team, who raided through the Chon-Ashuu pass (3800 m) on their own "Moskvitch-2141". Central Tien Shan. Chon-Ashuu pass.
You can found the mountain symbol - edelweiss - on the way up from Maida-Adir to the S. Inilchek gl. Central Tien Shan. Edelveises.
Pobeda peak as seen from helicopter going to land near BC on the moraine of S. Inilchek gl. Central Tien Shan. Pobeda peak seen from helicopter.
One of the BC (former MAL - International Mountaineering Camp) is located on the left-side moraine of S. Inilchek gl. The another camp is on the opposite side of the glacier. Central Tien Shan. Pobeda & Khan Tengri BC.
The friendly meeting with the Japanese team. Nobody knows what the dramatic continuation of this meeting will take place not far... Central Tien Shan. Pobeda & Khan Tengri BC.
The triumphal eating of the watermelons carried from the civilization in the close family's circle. Left to right: Efimov, Sorokin, Dubovik, Gonenko, Markeev, Bondarev, Vasenkov. Central Tien Shan. Pobeda & Khan Tengri BC.
The dining tent in the BC. There are the Zvezdochka [Little Star] gl., Dikiy pass, Pobeda peak to the behind.. Central Tien Shan. Pobeda & Khan Tengri BC.
From the BC one can see the fantastic view of Khan Tengri crowned with the cloud nimbus around the summit.  The spurs of the Chapayev peak are seen to the left of Khan. Central Tien Shan. Khan Tengri from BC.
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