| It
is well known that before climbing high-altitude peaks one must go through
acclimatization process. In the S. Inilchek gl. area one of the traditional
acclimatization approach is ascent to the Northern Dikiy pass (2a CD,
4770 m). The route to the pass lays on the Zvezdochka gl. |
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| It
is not very short trek, so to stay and have a dinner is not a bad idea... |
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| You
can see beautiful glacial lake which mirroring the surrounded spurs of
Kokshaal-Too range and spectacular Khan Tengri ("The Master of The Sky"). |
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| For
best acclimatization, it is worth to stay overnight on the col of Northern
Dikiy pass. |
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| The
high-altitude dehydration forced climbers to drink large quantities of
water... |
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| After
1st acclimatization route, the next is the approach of climbing Khan Tengri
(7010 m by the latest measures, which is a bit doubtful for the author
-IF) by the classic route from S. on Semenov gl. through Western
col. Warning!
Because of a high danger of the ice fall from the steep slopes of Chapaev
peak, the ascend in the down part of the Semenov icefall must
take place in the very morning, get starting before the sunrise from the
intermediate glacial camp at 4200 m (see photo). |
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| The
down part of the Semenov (especially so-called "bottle throat") icefall
is dangerous not only by the rare ice falls, but by continuous stone falls
which get beginning approx. after 8 a.m. Note.
After catastrophic ice fall on Aug. 23,
1999 the view shown at the right photo, was significantly changed! |
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| The
relatively safe places appear at 5100-5300 m elevations, so you can take
a rest and few photos (Bondarev V. on left, Regetsiy G. - leader - on
right). If you feel not too good to continue climbing up to the col (at
5900 m), there are some good camping place here. |
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| Directly
upon the Camp 5900 the ice wall leads to the Western Col of Khan Tengri
(about 6000 m, 3B CD for crossing through, the northern side is much steeper). |
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| The
upper storm camp is established at 6300, above the col. Unfortunately,
our team was forced to interrupt further climbing because one member was
seriously hit by AMS and they managed to provide the immediate evacuation
of ill person. |
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 back |
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