Pobeda peak (7438 m) expedition-98
Fotogallery with comments

for more detailed view click on the thumbnail photo
It is well known that before climbing high-altitude peaks one must go through acclimatization process. In the S. Inilchek gl. area one of the traditional acclimatization approach is ascent to the Northern Dikiy pass (2a CD, 4770 m). The route to the pass lays on the Zvezdochka gl. Central Tien Shan. Acclimatization on Zvezdochka gl.
It is not very short trek, so to stay and have a dinner is not a bad idea... Central Tien Shan. Acclimatization on Zvezdochka gl.
You can see beautiful glacial lake which mirroring the surrounded spurs of Kokshaal-Too range and spectacular Khan Tengri ("The Master of The Sky"). Central Tien Shan. Acclimatization on Zvezdochka gl.
For best acclimatization, it is worth to stay overnight on the col of Northern Dikiy pass. Central Tien Shan. Nothern Dikiy pass.
The high-altitude dehydration forced climbers to drink large quantities of water... Central Tien Shan. The altitude forced to large water  consumption.
After 1st acclimatization route, the next is the approach of climbing Khan Tengri (7010 m by the latest measures, which is a bit doubtful for the author -IF) by the classic route from S. on Semenov gl. through Western col. Warning! Because of a high danger of the ice fall from the steep slopes of Chapaev peak, the ascend in the down part of the Semenov icefall must take place in the very morning, get starting before the sunrise from the intermediate glacial camp at 4200 m (see photo). Central Tien Shan. Glacial camp-4200.
The down part of the Semenov (especially so-called "bottle throat") icefall is dangerous not only by the rare ice falls, but by continuous stone falls which get beginning approx. after 8 a.m. Note. After catastrophic ice fall on Aug. 23, 1999 the view shown at the right photo, was significantly changed! Central Tien Shan. Khan Tengri peak. The down part of Semenov gl.
The relatively safe places appear at 5100-5300 m elevations, so you can take a rest and few photos (Bondarev V. on left, Regetsiy G. - leader - on right). If you feel not too good to continue climbing up to the col (at 5900 m), there are some good camping place here. Central Tien Shan. Climbing the Khan Tengri peak.
Directly upon the Camp 5900 the ice wall leads to the Western Col of Khan Tengri (about 6000 m, 3B CD for crossing through, the northern side is much steeper). Central Tien Shan. Khan Tengri peak. Camp-5900.
The upper storm camp is established at 6300, above the col. Unfortunately, our team was forced to interrupt further climbing because one member was seriously hit by AMS and they managed to provide the immediate evacuation of ill person. Central Tien Shan. Khan Tengri peak. Above the W. col.
|1| |2| |3| |4| |5| |6|