CENTRAL TIEN SHAN

Pobeda peak (7438 m) expedition-98
Fotogallery with comments

for more detailed view click on the thumbnail photo
After climbing up the rocky belt, the final part of the route to Vaja Pshavela is the middle-steepy ice-neve slope. Central Tien Shan. The upper part of Vaja Pshavela peak.
More higher one is climbing up - more fantastic the view to the Khan Tengri is becoming... The col is visible up to Chapayev Peak. The confluence of the mainstream of South Inilchek Gl. and his right tributary - Zvezdochka Gl. - is seen at the bottom. By the way, BC site (former MAL) is located on the moraine at the confluence on the left from black rock. Central Tien Shan.  View to Khan Tengri.
On the right side - massif which includes the Voyennih Topografov Peak [Military Topographers' Peak] is visible. Central Tien Shan. View to Voyennih Topografov peak.
The storm Camp-7000 is established at the conjunction place of N. ridge to the main Kokshaal-Too range. On the photo - Volodia Bondarev near the Camp-7000 tent. The same time, the dramatics is performing on the upper Pobeda's slopes - 2 Japanese mountaineers from the Kazbek Valiyev's group who were starting the descent, are feeling very bad... The immediate help with evacuation is required... Central Tien Shan. Camp-7000.
Our guys descended both ill Japanese down to the Dikiy col, to where the rescue team from the BC are trying to ascent that time... But, it's impossible to communicate - no walkie-talkie... The helicopter suspending at 6,000 threw the radios, but one of the batteries was missed after radio was kicked on the neve... Nevertheless, all is good which finished good - that time, though... On the photo - our mountaineers are preparing one of the Japanese (left) to descend. Central Tien Shan. Rescue operation.
The route to the Pobeda's summit is laying upon her long (about 4 km) Western ridge, which is above the 7,000 m high. This ridge is known due to it's terrible nonstop winds. Mountaineers who have the will to reach the summit, must make both-way route for daytime. Otherwise, the staying overnight on the ridge above 7,000 m could become the last camping - at temperatures below -30 °C and the wind speed up to 200 km/h (125 mph)... Central Tien Shan. The route to the Pobeda summit.
Those of the team who feeling good to storm the summit,  got started climbing on the sunrise... Central Tien Shan. Climbing the Pobeda peak.
The Chinese side is visible from the ridge. Central Tien Shan. View to Chinese side of Pobeda massif.
The giant cornices which are inclined on the North side, pointing out the main wind direction... Central Tien Shan. Snow cornices.
At the very beginning of the pre-summit ridge is situated the notorious "Obelisk" rock Near this rock one of the Georgian-1954 expedition found his last shelter... Central Tien Shan. View to Obelisk rock and the Pobeda summit.
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