After climbing
up the rocky belt, the final part of the route to Vaja Pshavela is the
middle-steepy ice-neve slope. |
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More higher one
is climbing up - more fantastic the view to the Khan Tengri is becoming...
The col is visible up to Chapayev Peak. The confluence of the mainstream
of South Inilchek Gl. and his right tributary - Zvezdochka Gl. - is seen
at the bottom. By the way, BC site (former MAL) is located on the moraine
at the confluence on the left from black rock. |
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On the right side
- massif which includes the Voyennih Topografov Peak [Military Topographers'
Peak] is visible. |
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The storm Camp-7000
is established at the conjunction place of N. ridge to the main Kokshaal-Too
range. On the photo - Volodia Bondarev near the Camp-7000 tent. The
same time, the dramatics is performing on the upper Pobeda's slopes -
2 Japanese mountaineers from the Kazbek Valiyev's group who were starting
the descent, are feeling very bad... The immediate help with evacuation
is required... |
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Our guys descended
both ill Japanese down to the Dikiy col, to where the rescue team from
the BC are trying to ascent that time... But, it's impossible to communicate
- no walkie-talkie... The helicopter suspending at 6,000 threw the radios,
but one of the batteries was missed after radio was kicked on the neve...
Nevertheless, all is good which finished good - that time, though... On
the photo - our mountaineers are preparing one of the Japanese (left)
to descend. |
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The route to the
Pobeda's summit is laying upon her long (about 4 km) Western ridge, which
is above the 7,000 m high. This ridge is known due to it's terrible nonstop
winds. Mountaineers who have the will to reach the summit, must make
both-way route for daytime. Otherwise, the staying overnight on the ridge
above 7,000 m could become the last camping - at temperatures below -30
°C and the wind speed up to 200 km/h (125 mph)... |
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Those of the team
who feeling good to storm the summit, got started climbing on the
sunrise... |
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The Chinese side
is visible from the ridge. |
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The giant cornices
which are inclined on the North side, pointing out the main wind direction... |
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At the very beginning
of the pre-summit ridge is situated the notorious "Obelisk" rock Near
this rock one of the Georgian-1954 expedition found his last shelter... |
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