Big walls of Pamir Alai. Climbing.

Big Walls of Pamir Alai. Pamir Alai. Climbing. 22 or 24 days.

Region: Pamir Alai, Turkestan Range, Kyrgyzstan
Activity: rock climbing, Big Wall climbing (mostly rock, sometimes combined rock+ice)
Trip Category: upon demand
Difficulty: very difficult, need of special skill and gear (up to 6B+ CD)
Dates: June - September

The part of Turkestan Range (Pamir Alai mountain system) on the very western corner of Kyrgyzstan, which reminds South-American Patagonia, is most suitable place in former USSR for rock and Big Wall climbing. Mild climate, stable sunny weather, clearest rivers, alpine meadows, glaciers surrounded by 5000-meters summits make this area real Mekka for climbers.
On every summit you can make your own original route. The best time for climbing - July-September. The duration of the expedition depends on your plans and as a rule it takes from 15 to 35 days. All the ascents are started from the base camp.

We offer 2 climbing trip: Variant 1 - in Lailak (Aksu) canyon and Variant 2 - in Karavshin canyon, both 22 or 24 days long. You can order trip Bishkek-Bishkek (24 days), Osh-Osh or Batken-Batken (22 days). Bishkek and Osh have international airports, Batken - local flights Bishkek-Batken-Bishkek only. There are 2 separate BCs operating in Laylak Canyon and Karavshin Canyon respectively. Custom list service trips are also available upon demand.

Warning! These climbing trips are intended for experienced climbers only! Most of the routes are potentially very dangerous! Previous rock climbing skill and full set of rock climbing gear are mandatory as well as climbing insurance!

Russian- French- UIAA climbing gtade equivalents (approx.):

Russian	French	UIAA
1a, 1b	F – PD inf	I - II
2a, 2b	PD	II - III
3a	PD – AD	III
3b	AD – D	III - IV
4a, 4b	D – TD	IV - V
5a, 5b	TD – ED inf	VI
6	ED	VI

Climbing options for Lailak canyon:

Name of summits	Altitude A.S.L., m	Grade	Average steepness	The length difference	Vert. distance
Admiralteetz	5090	5B	60°	1500	1150
Aksu	5217	5B-6B	65°	1600	1380
A. Block	5239	5B-6A	65°	1000	850
Iskander	5120	5A	65°	1200	1000

Itinerary (variant 1a, Lailak (Aksu) canyon, 24 days Bishkek-Bishkek):

Day 1

Arrival to Bishkek, meeting, transfer to the hotel or GH. Optional cititour and shopping.

Day 2

After breakfast, transfer to airport, local flight to Batken, meeting, market visit, border permits registration. Transfer to Uzgarysh village. Camping. Preparation for trekking. FB.

Day 3

Trekking to Aksu canyon BC with caravan of horses (10 km, 5...6 hrs). Tent accommodation in BC. FB.

Days 4-21

Ascents. FB in BC.

Day 22

Descent to Uzgarysh village with caravan of horses. Transfer to Batken. GH accommodation FB.

Day 23

Transfer to airport. Local flight to Bishkek. Transfer to the hotel.

Day 24

Transfer to airport. Departure from Bishkek. B.

Itinerary (variant 1b, Lailak (Aksu) canyon, 22 days Batken-Batken):

Day 1

Arrival to Batken or Osh, meeting, market visit, border permits registration. Transfer to Uzgarysh village. Camping. Preparation for trekking. FB.

Day 2

Trekking to Aksu canyon BC with caravan of horses (10 km, 5...6 hrs). Tent accommodation in BC. FB.

Days 3-20

Ascents. FB in BC.

Day 21

Descent to Uzgarysh village with caravan of horses. Transfer to Batken. GH accommodation FB.

Day 22

Transfer to airport. Departure

Climbing options for Karavshin canyon:

Name of
summits

Altitude
A.S.L., m

Grade

Average
steepness

The length
difference

Vert. distance

Pyramidalniy

5509

65°

1300

1000

Slesova

4240

5B-6B

75°

1200

1000

The 1000`s
Anniversary of
Russia's
Christening

4507

5B-6A

65°

1800

1500

Peak 4810

4810

70°

1500

1200

Itinerary (variant 2a, 24 days, Karavshin canyon, Bishkek-Bishkek):

Day 1 Arrival to Bishkek, meeting, transfer to the hotel or GH. Optional cititour and shopping.

Day 2 After breakfast, transfer to airport, local flight to Batken, meeting, market visit, border permits registration. Transfer to Sariaz. Camping LD.

Days 3-4 Trekking to Karavshin canyon BC with caravan of horses. Tent accommodation FB.

Days 5-20 Ascents. FB in BC.

Days 21-22 Descent to Sariaz with caravan of horses. Camping. Transportation to Batken. GH accommodation. FB.

Day 23 Transfer to airport. Local flight to Bishkek. Transfer to the hotel. B.

Day 24 Transfer to airport. Departure from Bishkek. B.

Itinerary (variant 2b, 22 days, Karavshin canyon, Batken-Batken or Osh-Osh):

Day 1 Arrival to Batken or Osh, meeting, market visit, border permits registration. Transfer to Sariaz.

Days 2-3 Trekking to Karavshin canyon BC with caravan of horses. Tent accommodation FB.

Days 4-19 Ascents. FB in BC.

Days 20-21 Descent to Sariaz with caravan of horses. Camping. Transportation to Batken. GH accommodation. FB.

Day 22 Transfer to airport. Departure. B.

Note. The itineraries of above are draft and can be changed to meet weather, your special wishes, etc.

Cost (both variants): please for an offer!

Included: Meeting and transfers as listed, local flights Bishkek-Batken-Bishkek if listed, accommodation in double tents w/caremats on trek and in BC FB, double rooms in the hotels (if listed) BB, 1 night GH accommodation in Batken FB, all the transportations according to the program, food - 3 times a day on the active part, English-speaking guide on the way to BC and on return, pack animals and horseman (donkeyman) for luggage transportation Uzgarysh-BC-Uzgarysh or Sariaz-BC-Sariaz, hot shower in BC, kitchen/dining tent in BC with all necessary equipment (kitchen dishes, folding tables, chairs), toilet tent, electricity 220 VAC 50 Hz in BC, walkie-talkie rental for climbing, ecological fee, trekking and climbing permits.

Not included: Visa fees, alcoholic beverages and other luxuries, personal items.
Options. Visa support, extra nights in Bishkek, SGL accommodation, gear rental, gas cartidges, climbing food, porters for BC- peak pedestal luggage transportation, extra excursions.