Tien Shan: Khan Tengri - The Lord of the Sky. 21 days, South side from Bishkek.

See also: Khan Tengri (North) from Almaty, Khan Tengri (North) from Bishkek, Lenin Peak + Khan Tengri Peak, In the shadow of Khan Tengri: 5000+ peaks climbing.

Region: Kyrghyzstan, Central Tien Shan, Tengritag range
Activity: mountaineering expedition
Trip Category: regular
Difficulty: difficult, need of special skill and full set of mountaineering gear.
Season 2024: July-August (July, 15 to August, 25 recommended). Tour to join (full guided all inclusive): August, 3-23. Recommended expansion: Ala-Archa acclimatization and trekking+climbing programme. us for an offer!
Special offer: Short (12 days) full guided climb using oxigen. NEW!
Dates of helicopter flights to/from Karkara BC: July, 11; 15; 18; 22; 25; 28; 31 August, 01, 05; 07; 08; 11; 14; 18; 21; 22. BC will operate since July, 10 to August, 25 (Note: this information might be subject to change!)

Tien Shan - "The Sky Mountains" is one of the world's biggest and highest (up to 7,439 m - peak Pobeda) mountain land on the south of Central Asia where virtually all kinds of mountain outdoors are possible - from easy trekking to extremely difficult mountaineering. The entire area keeps ecological purity and untouched wild nature so far.

The marble pyramid of Khan Tengri (7,010 m high) attracts the people's attention for thousands years - it is seen from the ancient Silk Road, which is crossing so-called "Junghar's Gate" on the present-time Kazakh - Chinese border. The climbing of Khan Tengri from South Inilchek glacier via Western Col (5A CC mountaineering) is perfect adventure and requires good physical conditions of participants, previous climbing skill is also strongly recommended. All the participants who will succesfuly climb the Khan Tengri peak will be awarded with special diploma.

Itinerary (21 days programme Var. 1...4):

Day 1	Arrival to Bishkek. Meeting at airport or railway station. Hotel accommodation.
Day 2	Transfer Bishkek– Karkara BC (2200 m), 460 km, hut accommodation.
Day 3	Helicopter flight to BC (45 min, about 4,050 m) on the left-side morain of South Inilchek glacier. Rest.
Day 4	Acclimatization day. Preparations for climbing (1st acclimatization ascent), consultations.
Day 5	Acclimatization day. Preparations for climbing (1st acclimatization ascent), consultations.
Day 6	Hiking (about 6 km) across the S. Inilchek glacier. Placing the Camp 1 (ABC, 4,200 m, see climbing map) on the right side moraine near the junction with Semenov glacier.
Day 7	Climbing up the Semenov glacier up to Camp 2 at 5,300 m (note: start should take place very early in the morning due to ice and stone fall danger from the slopes of Chapayev peak).
Day 8	Climbing up to the foothill of Western Col (5,900 m). Placing of Camp 3 (usually in snow caves).
Day 9	Descent down to BC.
Day 10	Day of rest. Preparations for climbing (assault attempt).
Day 11	Day of rest. Preparations for climbing (assault attempt).
Days 12, 13	Climbing up to Camp 3 (5,900 m).
Day 14	Climbing up to Camp-4 (6400 m).
Day 15	Assault ascent up to the summit (7,010 m) along the Western spur. Return to the Camp 3.
Day 16	Descent to the BC.
Days 17, 18	Spare days for the case of bad weather.
Day 19	Helicopter flight to Karkara BC and transfer to Bishkek. Accommodation in hotel.
Day 20	Day in Bishkek.
Day 21	Transfer to airport in Bishkek. Departure from Bishkek.

Itinerary (12 days, full guided oxigen using programme Var. 5):

Day 1	Arrival to Bishkek. Meeting at airport or railway station. Hotel accommodation.
Day 2	Transfer Bishkek– Karkara BC (2200 m), 460 km, hut accommodation. 8...9 hrs, +1500 m.
Day 3	Helicopter flight to BC (45 min, about 4,050 m) on the left-side morain of South Inilchek glacier. Rest. +1850 m.
Day 4	Acclimatization day. Guided ascent to the Khabib Peak shoulder (4800 m). Easy climbing by a ridge. Tent accommodation. 6...8 hrs, +800 m).
Day 5	Descent to BC. 5...6 hrs, -800 m. Oxigen usage training and consultations.
Day 6	Hiking (about 6 km) across the S. Inilchek glacier to Camp 1 (ABC, 4,200 m, see climbing map) on the right side moraine near the junction with Semenov glacier. Overnight in pre-installed tent. 4...5 hrs, +200 m.
Day 7	Climbing up the Semenov glacier using oxigen up to the saddle at 5,900 m (note: start should take place very early in the morning due to ice and stone fall danger from the slopes of Chapayev peak). Overnight in Camp 3 (tent or snow cave). 8...10 hrs, +1600 m.
Day 8	Assault ascent up to the summit (7,010 m) along the Western spur. Fixed ropes here. Return to the Camp 3 (saddle). 10+6 hrs, +/- 1200 m.
Day 9	Descent to the BC. 5...6 hrs, -1800 m.
Day 10	Spare days for the case of bad weather.
Day 11	Helicopter flight to Karkara BC and transfer to Bishkek. Accommodation in hotel.
Day 12	Transfer to airport in Bishkek. Departure from Bishkek.

Note: the itinerary of above is draft one and should be subject to adjust to meet weather conditions, helicopter flights schedule, participants' wishes, etc.

Costs (variant 1, full package, unguided): $2900 per person. No group size limit! This option is for experienced mountaineers or for those who prefer the self-guided climbing.
Included: OVIR registration and LOI if needed, meeting/seeing off at Bishkek airport or railway station, transfers in Bishkek, transfers Bishkek - Karkara BC, Karkara- Bishkek, flight to BC and return (no weight limit!), hotel accomodation DBL BB in Bishkek (3 nights), all permits and local fees, full board in BCs: lodge and tent accommodation, 3 time a day hot meals, hot shower, cloak room, sauna and toilet, climbing consultations, long-range (BC-Bishkek) radio communication, walkie-talkie on climbing, fixed rope support, medical aid in BC, electricity in BC, registration with rescue rangers, changes of airflights and railway tickets if needed.

Cost (variant 2, full package guided climbing): us for an offer! Discounts for large groups are available. This option is for those who prefer guided climbing.
Included: OVIR registration and LOI if needed, meeting/seeing off at Bishkek airport or railway station, transfers in Bishkek, transfers Bishkek - Karkara BC, Karkara- Bishkek, flight to BC and return (no weight limit!), hotel accomodation DBL BB in Bishkek (3 nights), all permits and local fees, full board in BCs: lodge and tent accommodation, 3 time a day hot meals, hot shower, cloak room, sauna and toilet, climbing consultations, long-range (BC-Bishkek) radio communication, walkie-talkie on climbing, medical aid in BC, electricity in BC, registration with rescue rangers, fixed rope support, experienced climbing guide service (1 guide for 1-3 climbers), changes of airflights and railway tickets if needed.

Cost (variant 3, guided all inclusive climbing, fixed departure August, 6-26): us for an offer! This option is for those who prefer all-arranged guided climbing.
Included: OVIR registration and LOI if needed, meeting/seeing off at Bishkek airport or railway station, transfers in Bishkek, transfers Bishkek - Karkara BC, Karkara- Bishkek, flight to BC and return (no weight limit!), hotel accomodation DBL BB in Bishkek (3 nights), all permits and local fees, full board in BCs: lodge and tent accommodation, 3 time a day hot meals, hot shower, cloak room, sauna and toilet, climbing consultations, long-range (BC-Bishkek) radio communication, walkie-talkie on climbing, medical aid in BC, electricity in BC, registration with rescue rangers, fixed rope support, experienced climbing guide service (1 guide for each 1-3 climbers), high altitude camps tents pick service (NEW!), gas stoves, gas cartridges, cooking utensil, high altitude food, changes of airflights and railway tickets if needed.

Cost (variant 4, light package): $1700
Included: helicopter flight Karkara BC-glacial BC and return (30 kg free of charge, $5 each extra kg), climbing consultations, medical consultations, rescue rangers team registration, ecology fee for BC site, long-distance radio telecommunication service, all permits, OVIR registration.

Cost (variant 5, guided all inclusive short term oxigen using climbing): us for an offer! This option is for those who prefer all-arranged guided climbing, have no much time but want to climb 7000+ peak with close to 100% chances for success!.
Included: OVIR registration and LOI if needed, meeting/seeing off at Bishkek airport or railway station, transfers in Bishkek, transfers Bishkek - Karkara BC, Karkara- Bishkek, flight to BC and return (no weight limit!), hotel accomodation DBL BB in Bishkek (3 nights), all permits and local fees, full board in BCs: lodge and tent accommodation, 3 time a day hot meals, hot shower, cloak room, sauna and toilet, climbing consultations, long-range (BC-Bishkek) radio communication, walkie-talkie on climbing, medical aid in BC, electricity in BC, registration with rescue rangers, fixed rope support, experienced personal climbing guide service), high altitude camps tents pick service (NEW!), oxigen equipment + 3 oxigen cylinders; gas stoves, gas cartridges, cooking utensil, high altitude food, changes of airflights and railway tickets if needed.

Not included (all variants): travel to and from Bishkek, personal items, insurance and cost of rescue team support, food away from BC if not listed.
Options. The arrival and departure point can be changed with Almaty. The climbing of Khan Tengri peak may be combined with climbing the Pobeda peak or/and Marble Wall peak. Transfer to and from Bishkek from Almaty, hotel accommodation in Bishkek and Almaty (from * to *****), single supplement, transfers in Bishkek and Almaty, additional excursions, climbing guide and porter service, gasoline and butane gas cartridges refuel, gas catridges for stoves at BC, changes the dates of helicopter flights and transfers, additional days at BCs, gear rental (including high-altitude tents), food for climbing, sat communication, Internet access. Short-notice trip on prior agreement. 1 week pre-departure acclimatization trip in Ala-Archa gorge near Bishkek (recommended).

Ala-Archa acclimatization trip (recommended)

Day 1. Arrival to Bishkek. Meeting at airport. Transfer to the hotel (you can leave extra gear here). Transfer to Ala-Archa mountain base. Shale accommodation (DBL BB);
Day 2. Ascent to Ratzeka Hut. Tent accommodation.
Day 3. Climbing of Uchitel (The Teacher) peak, Descent to Ratzeka.
Days 4-6. Climbing up Aksai Glacier. Attempt on 2nd Tower of Korona Peak. Descent to Ratzeka.
Day 7. Descent to Ala Archa. Transfer to Bishkek. Hotel accommodation (DBL BB).

For Ala-Archa info please have a look here.

Cost: us for an offer!
Included: Meeting at airport, transfer airport-hotel- Ala Archa and Ala Archa- hotel (car or minibus), 1 night shale accommodation in Ala Archa (DBL BB), 3 times a day hot meals on climbing, tent and rope rental, climbing guide, porter to carry the gear from Ala Archa to Ratzeka and back.

Trekking to BC + climbing

In this programme (added prior to climbing - up to Day 9 of above) you make acclimatization hike from At Jailoo BC to Inylchek BC. Every night you stay in pre-installed BC so no need to carry camping and cooking stuff. Also, you can send your climbing gear to the glacial BC by heli in advance.

Day 1. Arrival to Bishkek, meeting, transfer to the hotel.
Day 2. Transfer Bishkek - Karakol (400 km). Accommodation in yurt camp (yurt is national nomadic dwelling)
Day 3. Transfer Karakol – Base camp “At Jailoo” (2500 m)
Day 4. Trek “At Jailoo” – to the glacier Inylchek – at the foot of Nansen peak 2900m. .(18km 6-8 hours.)
Day 5. Trek along and across the moraines to Putevodnyi glacier 3100m. (8km. 6-8hours).
Day 6. Trek along the side moraine to the Merzbacher meadow 3400m. (8km. 5-7hours.)
Day 7.  Trek Merzbacher meadow – Comsomolskii glacier 3800m.(10km. 6-8hours.)
Day 8. Trek Comsomolskii glacier – Base Camp “South Inylchek”. 4100m. (12km.6-8hours)

Cost (trekiing + climbing full package): $2850