Tien Shan: Khan Tengri - The Lord of the Sky. 21 days, North side, from Bishkek.

See also: Khan Tengri (South) from Bishkek, Khan Tengri (North) from Almaty, In the shadow of Khan Tengri: 5000+ peaks climbing.

Region: Kyrghyzstan, Central Tien Shan, Tengritag range
Activity: mountaineering expedition
Trip Category: regular
Difficulty: difficult, need of special skill and full set of mountaineering gear.
Season: July-August.
Dates of fixed dates full guided expedition: July, 23 - August, 12

Tien Shan - "The Sky Mountains" is one of the world's biggest and highest (up to 7,439 m - peak Pobeda) mountain land on the south of Central Asia where virtually all kinds of mountain outdoors are possible - from easy trekking to extremely difficult mountaineering. The entire area keeps ecological purity and untouched wild nature so far.

The marble pyramid of Khan Tengri (7,010 m high) attracts the people's attention for thousands years - it is seen from the ancient Silk Road, which is crossing so-called "Junghar's Gate" on the present-time Kazakh - Chinese border. The climbing of Khan Tengri from North Inilchek glacier via Western Col (5A CC mountaineering) is perfect adventure and requires good physical conditions of participants, previous climbing skill is also strongly recommended. All the participants who will succesfuly climb the Khan Tengri peak will be awarded with special diploma.

Itinerary:

Day 1	Arrival to Bishkek. Transfer to the hotel. Hotel accommodation.
Day 2	Transfer to Karkara BC (460 km, 2200 m). Tent accommodation (comfortable 2-person tents on wooden pedestal). Ascent to any surrounded peak (4000-4500 m) - recommended.
Day 3	Helicopter flight to North Inylchek BC (30 min, approx. 4000 m) on the side morain of North Inilchek glacier. Rest.
Day 4	Acclimatization day.
Days 5-16	Climbing to Khan Tengri summit along the Chapaev Peak and Western Col route (see climbing map). The intermediate camps are at the following heights: Camp 1 at 4800 m, Camp 2 at 5600 m, Camp 3 at 5900 m and Camp 4 at 6400 m. Our guides usually fix ropes at the most difficult places of the route (5200-5500 m, 5700-5900 m, and 6200-6750 m).
Day 17	Day of rest.
Day 18	Spare day for the case of bad weather etc.
Day 19	Helicopter flight back to Base Camp Karkara. Drive to Bishkek. Overnight in Hotel (***DBL, BB)
Day 21	Transfer to airport. Departure from Almaty.

Note: the itinerary of above is draft one and should be subject to adjust to meet weather conditions, helicopter flights schedule, participants' wishes, etc.

Cost (full guided package): $3350 per person.
Included: Meeting/seeing-off at the airport in Bishkek or at railway station in Bishkek; transfer airport – hotel - airport; transfer Bishkek - helipad in Karkara and back; helicopter flight to BC and back; unlimited luggage allovance on the helicopter flight to BC and back; hotel accommodation in Bishkek with breakfast (max 3 nights only total!); double tents accommodation full board at BC “North Inylchek“; usage of hot shower and sauna, toilet and cloak-room at BC “North Inylchek“; service of climbing guid; camping and cooking equipmen; high altitude food and fuel; ropes; tmedical consultancy; rescue rangers registration; ecology fee; long-distance radio telecommunication service; ultra-short wave radios (walkie-talkie) rental on ascents;.

Not included (all variants): travel to and from Bishkek, personal items, insurance and cost of rescue team support.
Options. The climbing of Khan Tengri peak may be combined with climbing the Pobeda peak or/and Marble Wall peak. Single supplement, transfers in Bishkek, additional excursions, climbing porters service, gasoline and butane gas cartridges refuel, gas catridges for stoves at BC, changes the dates of helicopter flights and transfers, additional days at BCs, sat communication, Internet access. Short-notice trip on prior agreement.