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Pamir: Communism (Somoni) and Korjenevskoy peaks climbing. 24/30 days, from Dushanbe.

Region: Tadjikistan, Pamir, Academii Nauk (Academy Of Sciences) range
Activity: mountaineering expedition
Trip Category: regular
Difficulty: very difficult/challenge, need of special skill and full set of mountaineering gear. 2 nights hotel accommodation, 21/28 nights at tents.
Season: July-August. Fixed dates for charter helicopter flights Jirgital-BC-Jirgital: July 15, 24; August, 3, 15, 25
Special offer: Lenin peak + Communism (Somoni) and/or Korjenevskoy peaks ( for details)!

Special offer: Lenin peak from the South side - 1 week side trip from the Moskvina Glade BC. Available upon the group request. us for details! NEW!

Pamir - one of the interpretation of the origin of the word is "The Roof of The World" is one of the world's biggest and highest (up to 7,495 m - Communism peak) mountain land on the south of Central Asia where virtually all kinds of mountain outdoors are possible - from medium trekking to extremely difficult mountaineering. The entire area keeps ecological purity and untouched wild nature so far because of practically absent of industrial development and very rare population.

Communism Peak (renamed to "Ismoili Somoni") - the highest mountain of Tajikistan and former USSR - is located in Akademii Nauk (Academy of Sciences) Range. Discovered by Tadjik Complex Expedition (leader - N.P. Gorbunov) in 1932. First ascent (East Ridge) - Sept. 3, 1933, Eugeny Abalakov and Nikolay Gorbunov.

The mountain's name has an interesting and very politized history. The 1st name was Pik Garmo until 1933, then it was changed to Stalin Peak after the current leader of Soviet Union. If you take a look at the area's map, the surrounded names are suited the Uncle Joe: NKVD and Beriya (after the predessor of KGB and it's bloody leader) glaciers and so on. In 1962, after Nikita Khrustcev took over the ortodox stalinists in Politburo, it was renamed to Communism Peak. After the collapse of USSR, in 1998 it was next time changed to Ismaili Somoni (Ismail Samani, Ismoil Somoni), but so far the peak is widely known as Communism 'cause not very much people know who the great guy Somoni is (in fact, it is believed he was the foundator of ancient Tadjik state).

Communism Peak, 7495 m, is a huge mountain looks like a giant heavily glaciated wall, despite it rising above a dry, barren region. The common way (via Borodkin Spur and Dushanbe Peak) lays through interesting natural phenomena: Pamirskoye Firnovoe Plato (PFP, Pamir's Neve Plateau)- neve and snow-covered flat ground of a size of few football stadiums, rised to the altitude of about 6,000 m! Climbing Communism peak is real mountaineering adventure involving full set of mountainering (mostly ice) gear and it needs good acclimatization and previous mountaineering background. It is good idea to climb Korjenevskoy peak 1st as a preparation for Communism peak. Climb of Lenin peak before these two would be very good idea.

Peak Korjenevskoy, 7105 m (also known as Evgenii Korjenevskoy Peak), is located in Akademii Nauk (Academy of Sciences) Range as well, very close to Communism peak. It was discovered Aug. 10, 1910 by Russian Middle Asia explorer Nikolay Korjenevskiy, named by him after his wife, Evgeniya. First ascend - in 1953 by Leningrad mountaineers, leader - A. Ugarov.

The common climbing route to Peak Korjenevskoy looks like giant "Z" letter. The unique feature of this route is that the 1st high-altitude camp (camp-1 at 5100 m) stays at absolutely dry place (on rock), so it it relatively warm there and no need to melt snow (pure spring is out there!). Moreover, the way to this camp is no more than beaten trail! But while go further, especially from itermediate camp-5800 (no much need to stay here!), and you would check the taste of full-scale ice and rock climbing!

Base camp for Communism (Somoni), Korjenevskoy and Lenin peak South is situated on a alpine meadow in the upper part of Fortambek gorge. The facilities include:

• Stationary dining room (cafe) with 80 seats – ideal cozy place for evening with a kitchen, bar, TV set, DVD player, chess, checkers and backgammon;
• Frame tents (2 persons per tent) put upon the wooden pad with mattresses and electricity;
• Shower/sauna;
• City version of WC – it is equipped with waste tanks and toilet paper. Furthermore there are convenient facilities for washing with warm water, soap and mirror;
• Cloak-room;
• Surgeries with all necessary medical supplies including oxygen facilities for high quality first aid assistance. Experienced reanimation doctor with high-altitude work experience can give you high quality aid assistance at any time. He is responsible for examining, advising you about your health during the tour;
• Volleyball play-field;
• Special high-altitude rescue team capable of rendering most diverse rescue services including transportation at altitudes above 7000 m. Registration of climbers in special ascent book is required. We’ll also give you a certificate when you descend;
• 3 times hot meal from professional cooks whose experience of work no less than 10 years (vegetarian meals and personal order meals are possible);
• Internet access via Wi-Fi and satellite phone;
• Rent of mountaineering equipment, portable radio stations; sell and refilling of gas canisters.

Important notice. This climbing trip is intended for experienced mountaineers only! Previous high-altitude mountaineering background is mandatory! Using climbing guide's and porter support is strongly recommended!

Itinerary (31 days, shorter itinerary - 28 days is available:

Day 1 Arrival to Dushanbe. Meeting at airport. Transfer to hotel.
Day 2 Transfer to Jirgital (8-10 hrs).
Day 3 Helicopter flight to the Moskvina Glade BC.
Day 4 Day of rest.
Day 5 Preparation day.
Day 6 Climb up to the Peak Korjenevskoy' Camp-1 (5100 m). No snow and ice (except crossing the small glacier), beaten trail, a bit rock. See route description.
Day 7 Climb to the Camp-2 (5300 m). About 2 ropes, mostly rock, some ice.
Day 8 Climb to the Camp-3 (6100 m). Steep ice.
Day 9 Descent to BC.
Day 10 Day of rest.
Day 11 Assault attempt. Climb to the Camp-1 (5100 m).
Day 12 Climb to the Camp-2 (5300 m).
Day 13 Climb to the Camp-3 (6100 m).
Day 14 Climb to the Camp-4 (assault camp, 6400 m).
Day 15 Ascent of the summit (7105 m) and descent to the Camp-4 or Camp-2. Ice- and neve-covered pre-summit ridge, quite gentle.
Day 16 Descent to the BC.
Day 17 Day of rest.
Day 18 Preparation day.
Day 19 Assault attempt on Communism (Somoni) peak. Climb Borodkin Spur to the Camp-1 (5300 m). See route description.
Day 20 Climb to the Camp-2 (5800 m).
Day 21 Climb to the Camp-3 (PFP, 6100 m).
Day 22 Climb to the Camp-4 (assault camp, North slope of Dushanbe Peak, 6900 m).
Day 23 Ascent of the summit (7495 m) and descent to the Camp-4 or Camp-2.
Day 24 Descent to the BC.
Days 25- 28 Additional days in case of bad weather.
Day 29 Helicopter flight to Jirgital and transportation to Dushanbe. Overnight in hotel.
Day 30 Transfer hotel-airport. Departure from Dushanbe.

Note: the itinerary of above is draft one and should be subject to adjust to meet weather conditions, helicopter flights schedule, participants' wishes, etc.

Cost (full package): $3500 Var. A or $3900 Var. B per person (no group size limit!)
Included: OVIR registration, meeting/seeing off at airport, transfers in Dushanbe, transportation Dushanbe-Jirgital-Dushanbe (minibus), flight Jirgital-Moskvina BC (up to 35 kg payload per person free, $10 for each additional kilo) and return, 2 nights guest house (Var. A) or hotel (Var. B) accomodation in Dushanbe (DBL BB, ***), 1 night GH accommodation in Jirgital FB, all local fees, full board in BC: heated hut (Var. B) or tent (Var. A) accommodation (2-3 person tents w/wooden floor and electricity), 3 time a day hot meals, high altitude food set; toilet, sauna 2 times, hot shower 4 times and cloak room service, medical consultations and 1st aid medical service in BC, guide-consultant and iterpreter in BC, internet via Wi-Fi, all paperwork

Not included: Travel to and from Dushanbe, visa fees, alcoholic beverages and other luxuries, personal items, insurance and cost of rescue team support, climbing guide and porters service.

Cost (light package): $2700 per person (no group size limit!)
Included: OVIR registration, meeting/seeing off at airport, transfers in Dushanbe, transportation Dushanbe-Jirgital-Dushanbe (minibus), flight Jirgital-Moskvina BC (up to 35 kg payload per person free, $10 for each additional kilo) and return, all local fees, services in BC: place for tent pick, toilet and cloak room service, medical consultations and 1st aid medical service in BC, guide-consultant and iterpreter in BC, internet via Wi-Fi, all paperwork.

Not included: Travel to and from Dushanbe, visa fees, alcoholic beverages and other luxuries, personal items, insurance and cost of rescue team support, food away from BC, climbing guide and porters service.

Options. You can combine climbing of Communism Peak with climbing Korjenevskoy (Korjenevskaya) Peak (7105 m) and Lenin peak from the South (7134 m)! The arrival and departure point can be changed with Bishkek, Almaty or Tashkent. Direct flight from Dushanbe to BC and return (see timetable on the very top). Visa support, hotel and room accommodation in Bishkek, Tashkent and Almaty (from * to *****), meeting/transfers in Dushanbe, Bishkek, Tashkent and Almaty, additional excursions, tent or hut accommodation (2-4 person tents and huts) and meals in BC, (including full board option), sauna and hot shower in BC, guide-instructor and iterpreter in BC, radio (including walkie-talkie rental) and voice sat communications, bar, climbing guide and porter service, butane gas catridges and catridge refill for stoves in BC, gear rental, single supplement (ask us for the price-list!).

Lenin peak (7134 m) from the South side (NEW!)

Day 1 Helicopter flight from Jirgital BC to the upper
Saukdara gorge (5000-5100 m). Establish the BC.
Days 2-3 Ascent on Krylenko pass (5800 m).
Day 4 Return to BC. Rest.
Days 5-7 Ascent on Lenin peak and return to BC.
Day 8 Return flight to Jirgital.

Cost: us for an offer!

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Pamir. Communism peak, Moskvina BC.
Panoramic view: Communism (Ismaili Somoni) Peak and Moskvina Field BC.
Pamir. Peak Korjenevskoy from Borodkin Spur.
Peak Korjenevskoy as seen from Borodkin Spur, Communism peak.
Pamir. Communism peak. Borodkin spur. Rock climbing.
Rock climbing on Borodkin Spur, Communism peak.
Pamir. Peak Korjenevskoy climbing. Ice climbing up to camp-5800.
Way to camp-5800, Peak Korjenevskoy.
Pamir. Communism peak. Ice climbing.

Communism peak. Borodkin Spur. Ice climbing in between Camp-1 and Camp-2.

Pamir. Peak Korjenevskoy climbing. From 5800 to 6100.
Korjenevskoy peak. Ice climbing from 5800 to camp-6100.
Pamir. Communism and Dushanbe peaks from PFP.
Communism and Dushanbe Peaks from PFP.
Pamir. Korjenevskoy peak climbing. Pre-summit ridge.
Peak Korjenevskoy. Pre-summit ridge.
Pamir. Communism peak climbing. Pre-summit ridge.
Communism peak. Pre-summit "Knife" ridge.
Pamir. Communism peak. Summit.
Wow!!! The summit of Communism Peak (7495 m).
Pamir. Peak Korjenevskoy. Summit.
Done! Not perfect weather, but it is the summit of Peak Korjenevskoy (7105 m)
Pamir. Communism (Somoni) and Korjenevskoy peaks panoramic view
Communism (Somoni) and Korjenevskoy peaks aerial panoramic view.
See 2 detailed fotoreports here for Peak Korjenevskoy:
fotoreport 1
fotoreport 2



Book the tour "Two Great Summits: Communism and Korjenevskoy Peaks climbing"!