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Pamir: Korjenevskoy peak climbing. 17/24/31 days, from Dushanbe.

Region: Tadjikistan, Pamir, Academii Nauk (Academy Of Sciences) range
Activity: mountaineering expedition
Trip Category: regular
Difficulty: difficult, need of special skill and full set of mountaineering gear. 2 nights hotel accommodation, 14/21/28 nights at tents.
Season: July-August. Helicopter flights Jirgital- Moskvina BC- Jirgital: July, 11, 12; 25, 26; August, 01, 02; 08, 09; 15, 16. (Note: this timetable may be subject to change! Bold: main dates; Regular: spare dates)
Special offer: Lenin peak + Communism (Somoni) and/or Korjenevskoy peaks ( for details)! Fixed dates guided expedition: July, 06 - August, 28 (Bishkek-Dushanbe).
Special offer: Lenin peak from the South side - 1 week side trip from the Jirgital BC.
us for details! NEW!

Pamir - one of the interpretation of the origin of the word is "The Roof of The World" is one of the world's biggest and highest (up to 7,495 m - Communism peak) mountain land on the south of Central Asia where virtually all kinds of mountain outdoors are possible - from medium trekking to extremely difficult mountaineering. The entire area keeps ecological purity and untouched wild nature so far because of practically absent of industrial development and very rare population.

Peak Korjenevskoy, 7105 m (also known as Evgenii Korjenevskoy Peak), is located in Akademii Nauk (Academy of Sciences) Range, was discovered Aug. 10, 1910 by Russian Middle Asia explorer Nikolay Korjenevskiy, named by him after his wife, Evgeniya. First ascend - in 1953 by Leningrad mountaineers, leader - A. Ugarov.

The common climbing route to Peak Korjenevskoy looks like giant "Z" letter. The unique feature of this route is that the 1st high-altitude camp (camp-1 at 5100 m) stays at absolutely dry place (on rock), so it it relatively warm there and no need to melt snow (pure spring is out there!). Moreover, the way to this camp is no more than beaten trail! Nevertheless, climbing Peak Korjenevskoy is real mountaineering adventure involving full set of mountainering (mostly ice) gear and it needs good acclimatization and previous mountaineering background. Good-acclimatized and experienced mountaineers can combine climbing Korjenevskoy peak (using this climbing as acclimatization route) with climbing Peak Communism, 7495 m (see corresponding chapter).

Base camp for Communism (Somoni), Korjenevskoy and Lenin peak South is situated on a alpine meadow in the upper part of Fortambek gorge. The facilities include:

• Stationary dining room (cafe) with 80 seats – ideal cozy place for evening with a kitchen, bar, TV set, DVD player, chess, checkers and backgammon;
• Frame tents (2 persons per tent) put upon the wooden pad with mattresses and electricity;
• Shower/sauna;
• City version of WC – it is equipped with waste tanks and toilet paper. Furthermore there are convenient facilities for washing with warm water, soap and mirror;
• Cloak-room;
• Surgeries with all necessary medical supplies including oxygen facilities for high quality first aid assistance. Experienced reanimation doctor with high-altitude work experience can give you high quality aid assistance at any time. He is responsible for examining, advising you about your health during the tour;
• Volleyball play-field;
• Special high-altitude rescue team capable of rendering most diverse rescue services including transportation at altitudes above 7000 m. Registration of climbers in special ascent book is required. We’ll also give you a certificate when you descend;
• 3 times hot meal from professional cooks whose experience of work no less than 10 years (vegetarian meals and personal order meals are possible);
• Internet access and satellite telephone;
• Rent of mountaineering equipment, portable radio stations; sell and refilling of gas canisters.

Itinerary (longest version - 31 days, shorter trips -17/24 days are available):

Day 1 Arrival to Dushanbe. Meeting at airport. Transfer to hotel.
Day 2 Transfer to Jirgital (8-10 hrs, minibus).
Day 3 Helicopter flight to the Moskvina Glade BC.
Day 4 Day of rest.
Day 5 Preparation day.
Day 6 Acclimatization climbing of Vorobiov Peak (5685 m), to the Camp-5300. Another option: Peak Chetireh (Peak of The 4th), 6230 m.
Day 7 Ascent to the summit of Vorobiov Peak. Descent to BC.
Day 8 Day of rest.
Day 9 Preparation day.
Day 10 Climb up to the Camp-1 (5100 m). No snow and ice (except crossing the small glacier), beaten trail, a bit rock. See route description.
Day 11 Climb to the Camp-2 (5300 m). About 2 ropes, mostly rock, some ice.
Day 12 Climb to the Camp-3 (6100 m). Steep ice.
Day 13 Descent to BC.
Day 14 Day of rest.
Day 15 Preparation day.
Day 16 Assault attempt. Climb to the Camp-1 (5100 m).
Day 17 Climb to the Camp-2 (5300 m).
Day 18 Climb to the Camp-3 (6100 m).
Day 19 Climb to the Camp-4 (assault camp, 6400 m).
Day 20 Ascent of the summit (7105 m) and descent to the Camp-4 or Camp-2. Ice- and neve-covered ridge, quite gentle.
Day 21 Descent to the BC.
Days 22- 29 Additional days in case of bad weather.
Day 30 Helicopter flight to Jirgital and transfer to Dushanbe. Overnight in hotel.
Day 31 Transfer hotel-airport. Departure from Dushanbe.

Note: the itinerary of above is draft one and should be subject to adjust to meet weather conditions, helicopter flights schedule, participants' wishes, etc.

Cost (full package): $2500 (17 days)/$2700 (24 days)/$3000 (31 days) per person (no group size limit!)
Included: visa support, OVIR registration, meeting/seeing off at airport, transfers in Dushanbe, transportation Dushanbe-Jirgital-Dushanbe (minibus), flight Jirgital-Moskvina BC (up to 30 kg payload per person free, $4,5 for each additional kilo) and return, 2 nights hotel accomodation in Dushanbe (DBL BB, ***), 1 night GH accommodation in Jirgital FB, all local fees, full board in BC: tent accommodation (2-3 person tents w/wooden floor and electricity), 3 time a day hot meals, high altitude food; toilet, sauna, hot shower and cloak room service, medical consultations and 1st aid medical service in BC, guide-consultant and iterpreter in BC.

Not included: Travel to and from Dushanbe, visa fees, alcoholic beverages and other luxuries, personal items, insurance and cost of rescue team support, food away from BC, climbing guide and porters service.

Options. You can combine climbing of Korjenevskoy (Korjenevskaya) Peak with climbing Communism Peak (7495 m) and/or Lenin peak from the South side! The arrival and departure point can be changed with Bishkek, Almaty or Tashkent. Direct flight from Dushanbe to BC and return (see timetable on the very top). Hotel accommodation in Bishkek, Tashkent and Almaty (from * to *****), visa support, meeting/transfers in Dushanbe, Bishkek, Tashkent and Almaty, additional excursions, tent or hut accommodation (2-4 person tents and huts) and meals in BC, (including full board option), sauna and hot shower in BC, guide-instructor and iterpreter in BC, radio (including walkie-talkie rental) and sat communications, climbing guide and porter service, butane gas catridges and catridge refill for stoves in BC, gear rental, single supplement (ask us for the price-list!), OVIR registration if needed (for non-tourist visa status and/or stay in Tajikistan over 30 days).

Lenin peak (7134 m) from the South side (NEW!)

Day 1 Helicopter flight from Jirgital BC to the upper
Saukdara gorge (5000-5100 m). Establish the BC.
Days 2-3 Ascent on Krylenko pass (5800 m).
Day 4 Return to BC. Rest.
Days 5-7 Ascent on Lenin peak and return to BC.
Day 8 Return flight to Jirgital.

Cost: us for an offer!


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Pamir. Peak Korjenevskoy .
Korjenevskoy peak as seen from Borodkin spur of Communism peak
Pamir. Peak Korjenevskoy climbing. Trail Moskvina BC- camp-1.
Trail from Moskvina BC to Camp-5100. Aerial photo.
Pamir. Peak Korjenevskoy climbing. Camp-1.
Camp-1 at 5100 m..
Pamir. Peak Korjenevskoy climbing. Camp-2.
Camp-5300.Peak Kirova (6372 m) on the background.
Pamir. Peak Korjenevskoy climbing. Ice climbing camp-5300 - camp-5800.

Ice climbing in between Camp-2 and 5800 m.

Pamir. Peak Korjenevskoy climbing. Camp-5800.
Intermediate camp at 5800 m.
Pamir. Peak Korjenevskoy climbing. 5100 to 6100.
All the way from 5100 to 6100 is seen.
Pamir. Peak Korjenevskoy climbing. Camp-5800 to camp-6100.
Rock climbing 5800 to camp-6100.
Pamir. Peak Korjenevskoy climbing. Camp-6100 to camp-6400.
Climbing from camp-3 to camp-4 at 6400 m.
Pamir. Peak Korjenevskoy climbing. Pre-summit ridge.
From assault camp-4 to summit. Pre-summit ridge is clearly seen.
Pamir. Peak Korjenevskoy climbing. On the summit.
Done!!! The summit of Peak Korjenevskoy (7105 m).
Pamir. Communism (Somoni) and Korjenevskoy peaks panoramic view
Communism (Somoni) and Korjenevskoy peaks aerial panoramic view.
See 2 detailed fotoreports here:
fotoreport 1
fotoreport 2



Book the tour "Peak Korjenevskoy climbing"!